Voron V0.2 to V0.2r1 Upgrade Guide

V0.2 Upgrade StealthBurner M4 Extruder

The Voron V0.2r1 is the refined revision of the beloved V0.2 — a 120mm^3 nano printer that punches far above its weight class. If you built a V0.2 before the r1 revision was released, you’re missing out on several key improvements: the mini-StealthBurner toolhead, the M4 extruder with better filament path geometry, improved Z-axis endstop mounting, Klicky probe support out of the box, and cleaner wire routing through the cable chain. The good news is that upgrading an existing V0.2 to r1 spec requires only a handful of new parts, most of which are cheap when sourced China-direct. Last updated: May 2025.

This guide covers the complete upgrade path from V0.2 to V0.2r1: what changed between revisions, which parts you need to buy, the step-by-step upgrade process for the toolhead, extruder, Z-axis, and wiring, and how to update your Klipper configuration for the new hardware.

What Is the V0.2r1 Upgrade?

The V0.2r1 is not a new printer — it’s a revision of the existing V0.2 design that incorporates community feedback and fixes several pain points from the original release. The key changes are:

• mini-StealthBurner toolhead: Replaces the Mini AfterBurner (MAB). The mini-SB has a better part cooling duct design, improved airflow, and a more rigid mounting system. It also supports the Voron TAP probe natively, which the MAB did not.
• M4 extruder: Replaces the M2 extruder. The M4 has a more constrained filament path that reduces the risk of filament buckling, uses a 17mm gear instead of 15mm for better grip, and has a simpler idler design with fewer printed parts. It’s compatible with the same stepper motor (a NEMA 14 pancake or NEMA 17 slim).
• Improved Z-axis endstop: The r1 revision moves the Z endstop to a dedicated mount on the Z motor plate, eliminating the problematic switch-on-frame design from the original V0.2. This gives more consistent Z homing.
• Better wire routing: The r1 cable chain and strain relief are redesigned to accommodate the mini-SB’s different connector layout. There’s also a dedicated umbilical mount option.
• Revised printed parts: Several printed parts were tweaked for better fit and finishing — the top hat section, the Skirt, and the bed mount brackets all received minor geometry updates.

Benefits of Upgrading

Better cooling: The mini-StealthBurner’s dual 3010 blower fans provide significantly more part cooling airflow than the Mini AfterBurner’s single 3010 fan. This translates to better overhangs, sharper corners, and the ability to print faster without sacrificing quality. In practice, users report 15-20% better overhang performance at 60 degrees.

More reliable extrusion: The M4 extruder’s constrained filament path virtually eliminates the jams and buckles that could plague the M2, especially with flexible filaments like TPU. The larger gear diameter means higher torque at the filament with the same stepper current.

TAP compatibility: The mini-StealthBurner is designed to accept the Voron TAP probe for bed mesh leveling. If you’ve been using a fixed probe or manual leveling, this is a major quality-of-life upgrade. TAP gives you accurate, repeatable Z offset without any moving parts to wear out.

Print quality improvements: The better cooling, more consistent Z homing, and improved extruder combine to give noticeably better print quality, especially on small detailed parts. The V0.2r1 can reliably print at 0.1mm layer heights with the same speed as the original V0.2 at 0.2mm.

Parts Needed — China-Direct Pricing

Here’s what you need to upgrade from V0.2 to V0.2r1. If you already have some of these (e.g., you swapped to a mini-SB already), skip those items. Prices are from AliExpress as of May 2025.

If you print your own parts (recommended), the total hardware-only cost from China direct is about $22-35. The pre-printed parts from AliExpress sellers are of varying quality — we recommend printing them yourself in ABS or ASA to ensure proper fit.

Difficulty Level and Time Required

Difficulty: Intermediate. This is not a beginner upgrade — you’ll be disassembling the entire toolhead and rewiring fans and the extruder stepper. However, if you built the V0.2 yourself, you have all the skills needed.

Time required: 4-6 hours for a careful first-time upgrade. If you’ve done a toolhead swap before, expect 2-3 hours. This does not include the time to print the new parts (about 8-12 hours on the V0.2 itself).

Step-by-Step Upgrade Process

Step 1: Print the New Parts

The V0.2r1 uses the mini-StealthBurner toolhead and M4 extruder. You’ll need to print the following parts in ABS/ASA:

• mini-StealthBurner: left body, right body, front visor, fan duct, M4 extruder body, M4 idler, M4 lever arm
• Z endstop bracket (r1 version) — small part, only if upgrading the Z endstop
• Optional: cable chain bracket r1, umbilical mount

Print settings: 0.2mm layer height, 4 perimeters, 40% infill, ABS/ASA at 100-105C chamber temp. No supports needed for most parts; the mini-SB fan duct may need minimal supports on the overhang.

Step 2: Disassemble the Existing Toolhead

Power down the printer. Remove the existing Mini AfterBurner toolhead, M2 extruder, and any probe. Disconnect all wires at the toolhead: hotend heater cartridge, thermistor, extruder stepper motor, part cooling fan, hotend fan, and any probe or endstop wires. Label each wire as you disconnect it — you’ll thank yourself during reassembly. Remove the old toolhead from the carriage plate.

Step 3: Assemble the M4 Extruder

The M4 extruder assembly is straightforward. Install the two drive gears on the stepper motor shaft — the larger gear goes on first, then the smaller gear. Use Loctite on the grub screws. Install the hobbed gear in the extruder body, add the bearing in the idler, and assemble the idler arm with the spring. The spring tension should be moderate — too tight and the gears will grind filament, too loose and it’ll skip. A good starting point is 3-4mm of compression on the spring.

Step 4: Assemble the mini-StealthBurner

The mini-SB is a smaller version of the standard StealthBurner. Follow the standard StealthBurner assembly steps:

• Install the two 3010 blower fans in the left and right body halves. Airflow direction matters — the fans should blow downward through the duct. Check the arrow on the fan shroud.
• Mount the M4 extruder inside the left body half. The extruder output aligns with the hotend input.
• Route the hotend wires (heater, thermistor) through the cable channels in the mini-SB body.
• Close the body with the right half and secure with the M3 screws.
• Attach the front visor and fan duct.

Step 5: Mount the Toolhead on the Carriage

The mini-SB mounts to the V0.2 carriage plate using the same M3 screw pattern as the Mini AfterBurner. If you’re using TAP, install the TAP mount between the carriage and the mini-SB. Torque the M3 screws to about 0.6 Nm — enough to hold securely but not so tight that you strip the plastic.

Step 6: Install the Z Endstop (r1 Version)

If your V0.2 still has the original frame-mounted Z endstop, now is the time to swap to the r1 version. Print the r1 Z endstop bracket and mount it on the Z motor plate. Install a microswitch (same as the X/Y endstops). This bracket gives a more consistent trigger point and doesn’t shift if the frame flexes.

Step 7: Rewire the Toolhead

Route the new wires through the cable chain. The mini-SB needs:

• Hotend heater cartridge (2 wires, 18-20 AWG)
• Thermistor (2 wires, 24-26 AWG, twisted pair recommended)
• Extruder stepper (4 wires, 24 AWG)
• Two 3010 fans (2 wires each, 24 AWG) — these can share a common ground if your board supports it
• TAP probe signal wires (3-4 wires, 24 AWG) — if using TAP

Use a multimeter to check for continuity and shorts before powering on. This is the most error-prone step — take your time.

Step 8: Update Klipper Configuration

Your printer.cfg needs updates for the new toolhead. Key changes:

• Extruder: Update rotation_distance for the M4 gears. The M4 uses a 17mm gear (effective diameter ~7.5mm). Set rotation_distance: 23.56 as a starting point and calibrate with the 100mm extrusion test.
• Fans: Add the second part cooling fan pin assignment. If your board had only one fan port, you may need to split the fan signal or use a MOSFET.
• Probe: If using TAP, add the TAP configuration section. TAP uses the z-endstop pin as the probe signal.
• Z endstop: If you moved the Z endstop, update endstop_pin in the [stepper_z] section.

Compatibility Notes

Existing electronics: The V0.2r1 upgrade does not require any electronics changes. The SKR Pico (or Mini E3) board in your V0.2 has enough fan channels and stepper drivers for the new toolhead. If you’re using an original V0.1 board (Fysetc Spider or similar), you may need to check fan header availability.

Hotend compatibility: The mini-StealthBurner is compatible with all Voron-standard hotends: Dragon, Dragonfly, Rapido, Revo Voron, and Phaetus. If you’re using a longer hotend (e.g., Dragon UHF), you may need to adjust the fan duct position.

Bed size: No change — the V0.2r1 keeps the same 120mm build volume. The mini-SB is actually slightly lighter than the Mini AfterBurner, so you may see improved acceleration performance.

Probe options: The mini-SB supports TAP, Klicky, and Euclid probes. TAP is the most integrated option but adds ~$15 to the upgrade cost. Klicky is cheaper (under $5 in hardware) but requires a docking station.

Before and After Comparison

Common Pitfalls

• Fan direction: The 3010 blower fans in the mini-SB must be oriented correctly. The air should exit through the side port, not the back. If your cooling performance is terrible, the first thing to check is whether the fans are blowing in the right direction. The fan blades should be visible when looking at the intake side.
• M4 gear alignment: The two drive gears on the stepper shaft must be aligned such that the filament passes cleanly from the top gear to the hobbed gear. Misalignment causes grinding and skipped steps. Use the alignment mark on the extruder body as a reference.
• Cable chain clearance: The mini-SB is slightly wider than the MAB. Check that the cable chain can articulate freely without hitting the mini-SB body. You may need to add a spacer or adjust the chain mount position.
• Spring tension on M4: Too much tension on the idler spring causes the gears to grind into the filament, creating plastic dust that can jam the extruder. Start with light tension and increase only if you hear skipping during extrusion.
• TAP z-offset: If using TAP, the Z offset will be different from your old probe. Re-run Z offset calibration after the upgrade. TAP typically has a much smaller offset value (under 1mm) compared to a fixed switch.
• Printed part shrinkage: ABS shrinks ~1-2% during printing. If your mini-SB parts are too tight or too loose, your printer’s shrinkage compensation may need adjustment. ASA shrinks slightly less than ABS.

Klipper Config Changes Summary

Here’s a quick summary of the printer.cfg changes needed:

# M4 Extruder rotation_distance (starting value)
[extruder]
rotation_distance: 23.56
# Calibrate this! Measure 100mm extrusion, adjust accordingly.

# Second part cooling fan (if using separate control)
[fan_part_cooling_1]
pin: ... # second fan header pin

# TAP probe (if installed)
[probe]
pin: ... # usually the Z endstop pin
z_offset: 0.0


Run RESTART in the Klipper console after making changes. Then run PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=245 to retune your hotend PID — the mini-SB’s different airflow characteristics can affect hotend temperature stability.