Voron V0.2 Mini Stealthburner Conversion — Complete Upgrade Guide

V0.2 Stealthburner Toolhead Upgrade 15 min read

The Mini Stealthburner is a community-designed toolhead that brings the aesthetics and airflow of the full-size Stealthburner to the compact Voron V0.2 platform. The stock V0.2 uses a Mini Afterburner with a single 3010 part-cooling fan — adequate for basic printing but a bottleneck for speed and material versatility. The Mini Stealthburner replaces the entire toolhead carriage with a redesigned duct that supports dual 3010 blower fans, a CNC or printed Clockwork 1 (CW1) extruder, and a wider selection of hotends including the Dragon, Revo Voron, and Rapido HF.

Last updated: May 2025. This guide covers everything needed to convert your V0.2 to a Mini Stealthburner, including printed parts sourcing, BOM with China-direct pricing, wiring modifications, and Klipper configuration changes. All pricing reflects direct-from-manufacturer sourcing through our sourcing mini-program.

Why Upgrade to the Mini Stealthburner?

The stock Mini Afterburner on the V0.2 has several limitations that the Mini Stealthburner directly addresses:

• Part cooling: The single 3010 radial fan provides approximately 3-4 CFM of airflow — barely adequate for PLA at 60mm/s. The Mini Stealthburner's dual 3010 blowers provide 7-9 CFM, enabling PLA printing at 120mm/s+ with crisp overhangs and bridges.
• Hotend compatibility: The Mini Afterburner is limited to the V6-style hotend (and its clones). The Mini Stealthburner accepts Dragon (standard and HF), Revo Voron, Rapido (HF and UHF), and even the Phaetus Bambu Lab-compatible hotends with the appropriate adapter plate.
• Weight balance: At approximately 185g (with CW1 extruder and Dragon hotend), the Mini Stealthburner is only 15g heavier than the Mini Afterburner, making it suitable for the V0.2's lightweight gantry without requiring motor upgrades.
• Aesthetics: The iconic Stealthburner look unifies your Voron fleet — a V0.2 with a Mini Stealthburner visually matches a V2.4 or Trident with a full-size Stealthburner.

Bill of Materials — Full Conversion Kit

The conversion requires new printed parts, additional fasteners, and the dual 3010 fan setup. Here's the complete BOM with China-direct pricing:

Total conversion cost (China-direct): Approximately $25-35 for the complete mechanical conversion, assuming you already have the V0.2 with Mini Afterburner. If you need a new hotend (Revo Voron or Dragon), add $25-40.

Printed Parts — Sourcing and Printing

The Mini Stealthburner STLs are available on the Voron Users Mods GitHub repository and Printables. You need the following parts:

• mini_sb_left_body.stl — Left fan duct and body shell
• mini_sb_right_body.stl — Right fan duct and body shell
• mini_sb_front.stl — Front cover with Stealthburner logo cutout
• cw1_mount_mini_sb.stl — Clockwork 1 extruder mount
• cable_cover_mini_sb.stl — Cable management cover (optional but recommended)
• led_diffuser.stl — For the optional Neopixel LED strip

Print settings (ABS): 0.2mm layer height, 4 walls, 40% infill (grid or gyroid), 240°C nozzle, 100°C bed, ABS slurry or Magigoo on a smooth PEI sheet. Print the left and right bodies in their functional orientation (fan duct openings facing up) with supports only for the fan duct overhangs. Use a brim for the left and right bodies to prevent warping — the tall, narrow shape is prone to lifting on corners.

If you prefer to buy pre-printed parts rather than printing them yourself, several China-direct sellers on Taobao and AliExpress offer Mini Stealthburner printed sets in ABS for $10-15. These are typically printed on Voron printers (the Voron print-it-forward program standards) and are dimensionally accurate. Avoid PLA or PETG parts — the V0.2 chamber can reach 50-60°C during extended ABS printing, which will soften PLA and cause creep in PETG.

Step-by-Step Installation

Step 1: Remove the Mini Afterburner

Power down the printer and disconnect all power. Remove the existing Mini Afterburner by loosening the two M3 screws on the carriage plate (accessed through the front of the toolhead). Disconnect the hotend heater, thermistor, part cooling fan, hotend fan, and (if installed) LED wires. Label each wire with its function before disconnecting. Remove the extruder motor and the hotend assembly. Retain the motor, hotend (if compatible), and all wiring for reuse.

Step 2: Prepare the Carriage Plate

The V0.2 uses an MGN7C linear rail carriage with a custom carriage plate. The Mini Stealthburner mounts directly to this plate using M3 roll-in T-nuts. Install four M3 roll-in T-nuts into the carriage plate slots — two on the top row and two on the bottom row. The T-nuts should be the M2-spec (2mm slot width) variety used in V0.2 extrusions. Do not tighten fully yet — leave approximately 1mm of play for adjustment.

Step 3: Assemble the Clockwork 1 Extruder Mount

Mount the CW1 extruder to the cw1_mount_mini_sb part using four M3 x 16mm screws. The CW1 uses the standard V0.2 NEMA14 pancake stepper motor (36mm body length, 1.8-degree step angle). Verify that the extruder gears rotate freely by turning the motor shaft by hand. If the gears bind, loosen the tension screw on the CW1 idler cover and re-tighten to finger-tight plus a quarter turn. The CW1 uses two Bondtech-style 0.5-module gears — replacement gears cost $3-5 per pair from China-direct sources.

Step 4: Install the Hotend

The Mini Stealthburner uses a hotend adapter plate specific to your hotend type. For a Dragon SF (standard flow), insert the hotend into the adapter, secure with two M3 x 8mm screws, then slide the assembly into the CW1 mount. The hotend should seat fully such that the nozzle is approximately 3mm below the CW1 mount's bottom face. Tighten the two M3 x 8mm grub screws that secure the hotend in place. If using a Revo Voron, the installation is identical — the Revo's integrated heat-break eliminates the need for nozzle changes at high temperature, which is a significant advantage for the V0.2's tight working space.

Step 5: Mount the Dual 3010 Fans

Insert the two 3010 radial fans into the left and right body shells. The fans should be oriented such that the airflow exits through the duct and blows downward toward the printed part. Secure each fan with two M2.5 x 10mm self-tapping screws through the fan's mounting ears into the plastic bosses. Do not overtighten — the plastic bosses can crack. If the included screws are too long, use M2.5 washers as spacers.

Fan selection tip: Winsinn 3010 fans (model WZ3010B24H) are the most commonly used in the Voron community. They are dual-ball-bearing rated at 20,000 hours and produce approximately 4.5 CFM at 24V. GDSTIME 3010 fans are a cheaper alternative at $3 each but use sleeve bearings with a 5,000-hour lifespan. For a V0.2 that runs 24/7, invest in the Winsinn fans — you won't need to replace them for years.

Step 6: Assemble the Toolhead

Attach the left and right body shells to the CW1 mount using M3 x 8mm screws. Use four screws per side — the screw holes are located at the top and bottom of the mounting flanges. The shells should clamp around the CW1 mount with no gaps. Attach the front cover using two M3 x 8mm screws at the top corners. Install the LED diffuser (if using) by sliding it into the slot at the front of the left body shell. Route all wiring through the cable channel in the right body shell before closing the assembly.

Step 7: Wire the Toolhead

The Mini Stealthburner uses the same wiring scheme as the Mini Afterburner but adds the second part-cooling fan. Wire the two 3010 fans in parallel to the part cooling fan output on your mainboard (typically FAN0 or FAN1). Each 3010 fan at 24V draws approximately 0.08A, so total draw is 0.16A — well within the 1A capacity of most mainboard fan headers. If you prefer independent fan control for staged cooling, wire each fan to a separate fan header and configure two fan sections in Klipper.

Recommended wiring order: Use JST-XH 2-pin connectors for all fan connections. This allows quick disconnection for toolhead maintenance. The hotend heater should use a JST-VH 2-pin connector (rated for higher current — the Dragon and Revo typically draw 1.5-2.5A at 24V). The thermistor uses JST-XH 2-pin. All connections should be secured with heat shrink tubing.

Step 8: LED Installation (Optional)

If adding the Stealthburner LED glow effect, cut a 200mm length of WS2812B Neopixel strip (5V variant). Solder 22 AWG wires to the DIN, 5V, and GND pads. Route the wire through the cable channel and connect to a 5V output on your mainboard or a separate 5V PSU. Configure the LED in Klipper using the [neopixel] section (see below).

Klipper Configuration Changes

After the physical installation, update your printer.cfg with the following changes:

[extruder]
step_pin: ...   ; keep your existing pins
dir_pin: ...
enable_pin: ...
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 22.678  ; standard for CW1 with Bondtech gears
nozzle_diameter: 0.400
filament_diameter: 1.750
heater_pin: ...  ; existing hotend heater
sensor_pin: ...  ; existing thermistor
sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104GT-2  ; or your thermistor type
control: pid
pid_Kp: 21.527
pid_Ki: 1.063
pid_Kd: 108.922
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 285  ; set to 300+ for Rapido or all-metal hotends

[heater_fan hotend_fan]
pin: ...  ; your hotend cooling fan pin
heater: extruder
heater_temp: 50

[fan]
pin: ...  ; part cooling fan(s)
max_power: 1.0
shutdown_speed: 0.0
cycle_time: 0.01
hardware_pwm: true

; if using dual independent fans, add a second [fan] section

[neopixel mini_sb_led]
pin: ...  ; LED data pin
chain_count: 1
color_order_GRB: true
initial_RED: 1.0
initial_GREEN: 0.0
initial_BLUE: 0.0

Update the [stepper_x] and [stepper_y] position_max values if needed — the Mini Stealthburner has the same XY envelope as the Mini Afterburner, so no changes are required for the basic geometry. However, the dual 3010 fans add 6mm to the toolhead width, which may reduce the usable Y-axis limit by 3mm per side. Adjust your position_min and position_max accordingly.

Testing and Calibration

After assembly and configuration, run through these tests:

1. Z offset check: The Mini Stealthburner changes the nozzle-to-probe offset if you moved the probe. Re-measure and set your Z offset using the paper method.
2. Part cooling test: Run the part cooling fan at 50% and 100% while printing a small PLA test piece. Verify that both fans spin freely and that airflow exits the front ducts evenly.
3. Hotend PID tuning: Run PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=250 — the different thermal mass of the new hotend requires fresh PID values.
4. Pressure advance calibration: The CW1 extruder has different flow characteristics than the Mini Afterburner extruder. Re-run PA calibration with a tower test.
5. Maximum speed test: The Mini Stealthburner is balanced for high-speed printing. Test acceleration at 5000 mm/s² and travel speed at 200 mm/s — the V0.2 with Mini Stealthburner can achieve these speeds without resonance artifacts.