Voron Build Tools Checklist — Everything You Need Before Starting

Guide Beginner Build

Building a Voron from a kit or from scratch requires a specific set of tools. Having the right tools on hand before you start means fewer interruptions, cleaner work, and a better final result. This checklist covers everything from absolute essentials to nice-to-have upgrades, with budget options and pro recommendations for every tool.

Essential Tools — You Cannot Build Without These

Hex Drivers (Allen Keys)

Voron builds use metric hex fasteners almost exclusively. You will need drivers in 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, and 3mm. Ball-end hex drivers are strongly recommended for accessing fasteners at angles, especially for the gantry and Z-axis assembly. Straight drivers work but are more frustrating for tight spots.

• Recommended: Wera Hex-Plus or PB Swiss ball-end drivers. These resist cam-out and last for many builds.
• Budget: Bondhus or iFixit Mako kits.
• Pro tip: Get a set with color-coded handles so you can grab the right size instantly. A T-handle hex driver for 2.5mm and 3mm gives better torque for frame fasteners.

Screwdrivers

You will need Phillips head screwdrivers in #0, #1, and #2 sizes. These handle everything from mainboard terminal blocks to stepper motor mounting screws.

• Recommended: Wera Kraftform or PB Swiss slotted/phillips drivers.
• Pro tip: A precision screwdriver set with interchangeable bits covers both Phillips and slotted terminals on mainboards.

Soldering Iron, Solder, and Flux

Most Voron kits require soldering for connectors, thermistor wires, and sometimes mainboard pin headers. A temperature-controlled soldering station is worth the investment.

• Recommended: Hakko FX-888D or TS100/Pinecil portable iron.
• Budget: KSGER T12 soldering station.
• Solder: 63/37 leaded solder with rosin core. 0.8mm diameter is ideal for electronics work.
• Flux: ChipQuik or Amtech NC-559 flux paste for clean joints.
• Pro tip: Practice soldering on scrap wire before working on your mainboard. A cold solder joint can cause intermittent electrical faults that are very difficult to debug.

Wire Strippers

You will strip a lot of wire during a Voron build — power leads, thermistor wires, stepper motor wires, and sensor wires. Auto-adjusting wire strippers save time and prevent nicking conductors.

• Recommended: Knipex 12 62 180 self-adjusting wire strippers. Handle 22 to 12 AWG without changing settings.
• Budget: iCrimp auto-stripping pliers.
• Pro tip: Do not use a knife or scissors to strip wire. Nicked conductors create hotspots that can fail under load.

Flush Cutters

For trimming zip ties, cutting filament, and snipping solder leads. Flush cutters leave a clean, flat cut.

• Recommended: Engineer SS-02 or Knipex 72 01 160 flush cutters.
• Budget: Hakko CHP-170.

Digital Calipers

Essential for measuring frame squareness, verifying printed part dimensions, setting Z probe offsets, and checking hardware fit. 150mm (6-inch) range with 0.01mm resolution is sufficient.

• Recommended: Mitutoyo 500-196-30. The gold standard for accuracy and repeatability.
• Budget: iGaging or Neiko digital calipers.
• Pro tip: Check calibration against a known standard (like a 25mm gauge block) before taking critical measurements. Replace the battery if readings jump erratically.

Digital Multimeter

Used for continuity testing, voltage checks during PSU setup, and verifying thermistor resistance. A basic autoranging multimeter is sufficient.

• Recommended: Fluke 17B+ or Fluke 101 for reliable readings.
• Budget: Aneng AN8008 or KAIWEETS HT118A.
• Pro tip: Use the continuity mode (buzzer) to verify that your crimped connectors have good contact. No beep means a bad crimp.

Loctite 242 (Blue)

Medium-strength threadlocker for frame fasteners, gantry bolts, and any screw that vibration could loosen. Blue Loctite is removable with hand tools. Do not use red (permanent) Loctite on Voron hardware.

• Application: One drop on the threads of M3 through M5 fasteners that go into extrusions or T-nuts.
• Pro tip: Do not apply Loctite to fasteners that thread into plastic printed parts. The solvent can weaken the plastic.

SuperLube Grease

Synthetic grease for lubricating linear rails, lead screws, and Z-axis components. SuperLube 21030 (tube) or 41050 (tub) is the community standard.

• Application: A thin film on linear rail balls and lead screw threads. Wipe away excess after working it in.
• Pro tip: Do not over-grease. Excess grease attracts dust and debris that accelerate rail wear.

Isopropyl Alcohol 91% or Higher

For cleaning linear rails before greasing, wiping down extrusion surfaces, cleaning the build plate, and removing flux residue from solder joints.

• Use 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol. Lower concentrations contain too much water and may cause rust on steel components.
• Apply with lint-free wipes or paper towels. Avoid cotton balls that leave fibers behind.

Nice-to-Have Tools

These tools are not strictly required but will make your build faster, safer, and more enjoyable.

Torque Driver (0.5 to 2.5 Nm)

A torque driver ensures consistent fastener tightness across your build. Overtightening can strip plastic printed parts or crush T-nuts. Undertightening can leave gantry joints loose.

• Recommended: Wera 7400/2 Kraftform torque screwdriver set. Covers the 0.5 to 2.5 Nm range used on Voron hardware.
• Pro tip: M3 screws in plastic parts should be torqued to approximately 0.4-0.6 Nm. Frame fasteners to approximately 1.5-2.0 Nm.

Heat Gun

Useful for heat shrink tubing, softening printed parts for fitment adjustments, and warming linear rails before greasing.

• Budget: Any variable-temperature heat gun from a hardware store works.
• Pro tip: Use the low setting (around 150-200 C) for heat shrink. High heat can damage printed parts and wiring.

Crimper (Engineer PA-09 or PA-21)

If your kit uses Dupont, JST, or Molex Micro-Fit connectors (common on Voron wiring), a proper crimper makes reliable connections. The Engineer PA-09 is the community favorite for JST and Dupont contacts.

• Recommended: Engineer PA-09 (for small contacts) and IWISS SN-28B (for Dupont pins).
• Pro tip: Practice crimping on scrap wire before doing your actual harness. A bad crimp can cause intermittent electrical faults that are extremely hard to find later.

Deburring Tool

Frame extrusions often have sharp edges and burrs from cutting. A deburring tool cleans these safely and quickly.

• Pro tip: Run the deburring tool along all extrusion edges before assembly. Not only does it prevent cuts during the build, but it also ensures T-nuts slide smoothly into the extrusion slots.

Machinist Square

For checking frame squareness during assembly. A 6-inch or 8-inch machinist square verifies that your frame corners are exactly 90 degrees.

• Pro tip: Check frame squareness before tightening all frame bolts. An out-of-square frame causes binding in the motion system that is very difficult to fix later.

Thread Pitch Gauge

Helps identify fasteners. Voron kits use M3, M4, and M5 metric fasteners of various lengths. A thread pitch gauge prevents confusion if your hardware bags are not labeled.

Workspace Setup

Your workspace matters as much as your tools. A good setup prevents mistakes and reduces frustration.

• Large, flat table: You need enough space for the printer frame (at least 500x500mm for a 350mm build) plus room for tools and hardware. A solid workbench at standing height is ideal.
• Good lighting: Overhead LED lighting plus a task light or headlamp. You will be looking at small fasteners and wire markings. A magnetic articulating LED light is a game-changer.
• Parts organization: Use a compartment box or labeled containers for hardware. Voron kits come with many small fasteners. Sorting them by size and type before starting saves hours of searching.
• ESD-safe surface: An anti-static mat protects sensitive electronics like the mainboard and Raspberry Pi.
• Magnification: A magnifying lamp or head-mounted magnifier helps with reading small pin labels and inspecting solder joints.

Tool Cost Estimates

• Budget build ($50-80): iFixit driver kit, budget soldering iron, basic calipers, generic multimeter, flush cutters, Loctite, SuperLube, and isopropyl alcohol.
• Mid-range build ($100-150): Wera hex drivers, TS100 soldering iron, iGaging calipers, Aneng multimeter, Engineer PA-09 crimper, deburring tool, and machinist square.
• Pro build ($180-250): Full Wera hex plus screwdriver set, Hakko FX-888D soldering station, Mitutoyo calipers, Fluke multimeter, Knipex wire strippers, torque driver, and Engineer PA-21 crimper.

These tools are reusable for future builds, printer maintenance, and general workshop tasks. Consider the cost an investment in your 3D printing hobby rather than a one-time expense.

Where to Buy Tools

• China-direct (AliExpress): Best for budget tools, soldering irons (TS100, KSGER), crimpers, and organization boxes. Shipping takes 2-4 weeks.
• Amazon: Best for mid-range tools with fast shipping. Wera, iFixit, Hakko, and Knipex are all available with Prime delivery.
• Local hardware stores: Good for Loctite, isopropyl alcohol, SuperLube, and basic hex keys. Prices are higher but you get it immediately.
• Specialty tool stores (McMaster-Carr, McMaster, Grainger): Best for professional-grade tools, torque drivers, and precision measurement tools.