Voron Printed Parts Guide — Print Your Own ABS Parts for Your Build

Build Materials Guide

Every Voron printer depends on a set of 3D-printed structural components. These parts hold the motion system, anchor the toolhead, and form the gantry corners. Printing them yourself is both a cost-saving opportunity and a rite of passage. But ABS is not easy to print, and getting it wrong means warped parts, layer delamination, or dimensional inaccuracy that compromises your entire build. This guide covers everything you need to print Voron parts successfully.

Printed Parts Overview

The number of printed parts varies by Voron model. Each part must be printable on a standard FDM printer with a 200x200mm or larger build plate and an enclosure capable of maintaining ABS chamber temperatures.

• Voron V0.2: Approximately 50 printed parts. Smaller parts overall, fitting easily on a 200x200mm bed.
• Voron Trident: Approximately 60 printed parts. Includes gantry corners, Z motor mounts, and toolhead components.
• Voron V2.4: Approximately 80 printed parts. The most complex set, with gantry corners, AB drive frames, Z joint housings, and the toolhead.

Every part is available as a free STL download from the Voron GitHub repository. The files include print orientation marks and notes for critical features like threaded insert holes.

PIF vs Self-Print: Which Route Is Right?

You have three options for obtaining your Voron printed parts.

Print It Forward (PIF) Program

PIF is the Voron community's quality-assurance program. Approved PIF printers are experienced builders who print parts on actual Voron machines using validated settings and certified ABS or ASA filament. Each part is inspected for dimensional accuracy, layer adhesion, and surface finish before shipping. A full set costs $50-100 depending on the model. This is the safest option for first-time builders — you know the parts are correct, and any issues are covered by the vendor.

Self-Printing

Printing your own parts saves money and gives you control, but it requires a working 3D printer capable of ABS, a well-tuned machine, and an enclosure. If you already have a printer that can handle ABS (like an Ender 3 with enclosure, or a Prusa MK3S with enclosure), self-printing is a viable and rewarding path.

China-Direct Pre-Printed Parts

Many China-direct Voron kit vendors also sell pre-printed ABS parts. Quality varies widely. Some are excellent — printed on industrial-grade machines with verified settings. Others are rushed, warped, or made from unknown ABS blends. If you go this route, buy from a vendor with positive reviews specifically about their printed parts quality.

Printer Requirements for Self-Printing

To print Voron parts yourself, your printer must meet these minimum requirements:

• Build volume: Minimum 200mm x 200mm x 200mm. Some Voron V2.4 gantry corner parts are quite large and may require a 220x220mm bed to fit comfortably.
• Enclosure: Absolutely mandatory for ABS. A cardboard box is not sufficient — you need an enclosure that can maintain 45-60C chamber temperature without drafts. Lack of enclosure is the #1 cause of failed ABS prints.
• All-metal hotend: Required for 240-260C nozzle temperatures. PTFE-lined hotends degrade at these temperatures and release toxic fumes.
• Heated bed: Must reach 100-110C reliably. A 120V AC bed heater or silicone heater pad is ideal.

Filament Selection

Not all ABS is created equal. The Voron community has settled on a few proven options.

ABS (Recommended)

• eSun ABS+: The beginner's choice. Lower printing temperature, less shrinkage, better layer adhesion than standard ABS. It is more forgiving of imperfect enclosure conditions. Start here if this is your first ABS print.
• Polymaker PolyLite ABS: Higher strength than eSun ABS+, better surface finish, but requires tighter temperature control. Good for experienced ABS printers building a performance-focused Voron.
• KVP ABS: A favorite among PIF vendors. Excellent dimensional consistency and layer adhesion. More expensive and harder to find outside the US.

ASA (Alternative)

ASA is chemically similar to ABS but with better UV and weather resistance. It is slightly harder to print — requires higher enclosure temperatures (50-60C) and more precise cooling control. The matte finish looks excellent on Voron parts. Use ASA if your printer will live in a garage, workshop, or near a window.

PC-CF (Not Recommended)

Carbon-fiber reinforced polycarbonate is extremely stiff and strong, but it is the wrong material for Voron parts. PC-CF is too brittle for the shock-loading that Voron gantry components experience. Parts crack around screw holes and threaded inserts. Avoid it.

Layer Orientation — The Most Important Concept

ABS printed parts are anisotropic — they are significantly weaker in the Z direction (between layers) than in the XY plane. Voron parts are subject to complex stress patterns, especially gantry corners and XY joints that experience tension, torsion, and compression.

The rule: Orient each part so that layer lines are perpendicular to the primary stress direction. For example, a gantry corner bracket should be printed with its mounting flanges flat on the bed — this puts the shear load across layers rather than along them.

Every Voron STL on GitHub includes a recommended print orientation. Follow it exactly. If you change the orientation, you risk part failure under load.

Print Settings Reference

These are the community-standard settings that produce reliable Voron parts:

• Layer height: 0.2mm (standard). Do not use 0.16mm or 0.12mm for structural parts — thinner layers have poorer interlayer adhesion.
• Nozzle: 0.4mm (standard). A 0.6mm nozzle can be used for faster printing but may leave visible layer lines on cosmetic surfaces.
• Nozzle temperature: 240-260C depending on filament brand. Start at 245C for eSun ABS+ and adjust up or down.
• Bed temperature: 100-110C. 105C is a good starting point. Use a PEI sheet or glass with ABS juice (ABS dissolved in acetone) or Vision Miner Nano Polymer adhesive.
• Chamber temperature: 45-60C. Measure with a thermometer at the print location. If your chamber cannot maintain 45C minimum, parts will warp.

Infill

Voron specification calls for 40-55% infill on structural parts. Use gyroid or honeycomb pattern — both provide good strength in all directions with minimal vibration during printing. Do not use grid or lines pattern; they create weak spots at intersections.

Cooling

ABS needs very little cooling. Run the part cooling fan at 10-20% speed starting from layer 4. The first three layers should have zero fan to maximize bed adhesion. Overcooling is a leading cause of warped ABS parts.

Print Orientation Guide for Key Parts

• Gantry corners (V2.4, Trident): Print with the flat mounting face on the bed. The vertical arms should point upward. Use a brim of at least 8mm width.
• Toolhead carriage (all models): Print with the belt-clamp face on the bed. This ensures the belt clamping area is strong along the layer direction.
• XY joints (V2.4): Print with the bearing pockets facing up. Support overhangs if necessary — the bearing fit is critical and any sag will cause binding.
• Z motor mounts: Print with the motor flange flat on the bed. The screw holes for motor mounting must be clean — drill them out with a 2.5mm bit if they are tight.
• AB drive frames: Print on their side with supports. The belt path channels must be free of stringing and support residue.

Post-Processing

After printing, each part needs some finishing work before installation.

• Remove brims carefully: Use flush cutters and sand the brim remnants flat. A poorly removed brim will prevent a part from seating flush against an extrusion.
• Drill holes for heatset inserts: Voron parts have undersized holes designed to be drilled to the exact diameter for M3 or M5 threaded inserts. Use a 4.2mm drill bit for M3 inserts and a 6.2mm bit for M5 inserts. A drill press or printed drilling guide ensures perpendicular holes.
• Sand support surfaces: Any surface that contacted supports will be rough. Sand with 120-180 grit until smooth, then clean with isopropyl alcohol to remove dust.
• Deburr screw holes: ABS is notch-sensitive — a sharp edge at a screw hole can initiate a crack. Use a deburring tool or chamfer bit to break the edges.

Troubleshooting Common Print Defects

• Warped corners: Check enclosure temperature (must be at least 45C). Increase brim width to 10-12mm. Ensure no drafts from enclosure gaps or the printer's own fans.
• Poor layer adhesion: Chamber too cold (below 45C). Increase nozzle temperature by 5C. Reduce part cooling fan to 10% or less. Check for drafts.
• Dimensional inaccuracy: Calibrate your extrusion multiplier (flow rate). Print a 20mm calibration cube and measure with calipers. Adjust extrusion multiplier so walls are the correct thickness. Re-measure after calibration.
• Stringing between parts: Increase retraction distance slightly (0.5-1.0mm) or enable retract on layer change. ABS is less stringy than PLA, but poor retraction settings can still cause issues.
• Scarring from supports: Reduce support interface density or increase support Z distance. Consider tree/organic supports for parts with complex overhangs.

Final Checklist Before Building

• All parts are printed in the correct orientation with layer lines perpendicular to stress
• Holes are drilled to the correct diameter for heatset inserts
• All brim and support material is removed and surfaces are sanded smooth
• Parts fit together dry before installation — if they do not fit now, they will not fit during the build
• Store printed parts in a dry, warm environment. ABS absorbs moisture over time, which can affect fitment.

Printing your own Voron parts is one of the most challenging but rewarding aspects of the build. Take your time, dial in your settings on test prints first, and do not rush the calibration. A set of well-printed parts will serve your Voron for thousands of hours of reliable printing.