Voron PC Printing Guide — Polycarbonate on Voron 3D Printers

Materials Printing Advanced

Polycarbonate (PC) is a high-performance engineering thermoplastic that pushes Voron printers to their limits. With a glass transition temperature of ~147°C, exceptional impact strength (250x stronger than glass), and excellent dimensional stability, PC is the material of choice for Voron parts that must withstand high heat, mechanical stress, or chemical exposure. But printing PC requires your Voron to be at peak performance — and demands careful preparation. Last updated: May 2025.

This guide covers everything you need to print PC successfully on a Voron: why your printer must be upgraded for PC temperatures, mandatory drying procedures, bed adhesion techniques, print temperature settings, layer adhesion optimization, PC vs ABS vs nylon, and the best PC filament brands. We cover both standard PC and filled variants (PC-CF, PC-GF).

PC vs ABS vs Nylon — Which Material for Which Voron Part

• PC (Polycarbonate): Highest temperature resistance (Tg ~147°C) and impact strength. Best for parts in direct contact with the hotend, chamber components, probe mounts, and any part that must survive a chamber temperature above 80°C. PC is also food-safe (in virgin grade) and has excellent chemical resistance. The downside: PC is extremely hygroscopic, requires a 280-300°C hotend, and prints at a 130-150°C bed temperature that challenges standard Voron electronics.
• ABS/ASA: Lower temperature requirement, easier to print, less hygroscopic. Suitable for structural parts (gantry mounts, AB drive units) that see chamber temperatures up to 70°C. ABS is the practical choice for most Voron printed parts — PC is only needed for specific high-temperature applications.
• Nylon (PA): Excellent toughness and chemical resistance, but PC has higher temperature resistance and better impact strength. Nylon is more flexible, while PC is stiffer. Nylon also warps more than PC during printing. Choose PC when you need rigidity at high temperature; choose nylon when you need flexibility or chemical resistance.
• PC vs PC-CF: Carbon-fiber-filled PC (PC-CF) adds stiffness, reduces warping, and improves dimensional stability. PC-CF is easier to print than standard PC because the carbon fibers reduce the coefficient of thermal expansion (CTE). Standard PC is tougher (more impact-resistant) and more translucent. For Voron structural parts, PC-CF is usually the better choice.

Printer Requirements — Can Your Voron Print PC?

Printing PC requires your Voron to operate at temperatures that push the boundaries of standard components. Here is what you need:

• Hotend capable of 280-300°C continuous: The standard Voron hotend (V6-style, Dragon, or Stealthburner with Revo Voron) with a PTFE-lined heatbreak will NOT work — PTFE degrades above 260°C and releases toxic fumes. You need an all-metal hotend: Dragon HF, Goliath, Rapido, Mosquito, or a Copperhead with the all-metal heatbreak. The Phaetus Dragon UHF (Ultra High Flow) is a popular choice for PC. Nozzle: hardened steel (0.4-0.6mm) for PC-CF, brass or hardened for standard PC.
• Bed heater capable of 130-150°C: Standard Voron bed heaters (AC silicone heaters on V2.4/Trident, DC on V0) can reach these temperatures, but your PID tuning must be spot-on. Run a PID calibration at 140°C target to ensure stable bed temperature. The Voron V2.4 350mm bed requires approximately 1000W to maintain 140°C, so ensure your SSR is rated for the load.
• Chamber capable of 60-80°C: PC requires a hot chamber (60-80°C minimum) to prevent warping. The V2.4 and Trident enclosures can reach these temperatures with the bed at 140°C, but you may need supplemental chamber insulation. The V0.2 enclosure will reach 60-70°C easily. Monitor chamber temperature carefully — sustained 80°C+ can damage stepper motors (TMC2209/5160 rated to 85°C max) and shorten PSU lifespan.
• Electronics cooling: At chamber temperatures above 60°C, your electronics bay needs active cooling. Ensure the electronics bay fan is functional and consider adding a dedicated exhaust fan for the electronics compartment. The Nevermore filter can be used to circulate chamber air and equalize temperature.
• All-metal extruder drive: Standard extruder gears (brass) can wear quickly with PC-CF. Use hardened steel gears (Clockwork 2 with steel drive gear, Galileo 2 with steel gears). Standard PC will print fine with brass gears but the higher temperature may soften PLA or PETG extruder components — ensure your extruder is ABS or printed in PC itself.
• Enclosure insulation: To reach and maintain 60-80°C chamber temperature efficiently, add insulation panels to the enclosure panels. Reflective bubble insulation (from Voron mod stores) on the side and rear panels reduces heat loss and improves chamber temperature stability. A 4mm closed-cell foam gasket on the door also helps.

Mandatory Drying — PC is Extremely Hygroscopic

Polycarbonate is highly hygroscopic — it absorbs moisture from the air rapidly. A fresh spool of PC left open for 2-4 hours in 50% humidity will absorb enough moisture to cause visible print defects. Printing wet PC causes:

• Popping and crackling sounds from the hotend as water vaporizes
• Surface defects: bubbles, pitting, and rough texture
• Severely reduced layer adhesion (moisture interferes with polymer chain bonding)
• Stringing and oozing (water creates steam that pushes filament out of the nozzle)
• Brittleness — wet PC loses up to 40% of its impact strength

Drying procedure: Dry PC at 90-100°C for 8-12 hours in a filament dryer or convection oven. Do NOT exceed 100°C, as PC can sinter (particles fuse together) at higher temperatures. Use a dedicated dryer like the Sunlu S2 (which reaches 70°C — insufficient for PC, so use oven drying instead) or a PrintDry Pro. A kitchen oven with an accurate thermometer works well — set to 95°C and leave the spool for 10-12 hours. Store PC in a dry box (0% humidity) with desiccant and feed directly from the dry box during printing. Use an airtight container with silica gel beads or a dedicated dry box with PTFE tube passthrough.

Print Temperature Settings

Bed Adhesion for PC

Polycarbonate's high printing temperatures (130-150°C bed) create special adhesion challenges. Here are the methods that work:

• Garolite G10/FR4 (Recommended): This is the best surface for PC printing. G10 provides excellent grip at high temperatures and PC releases naturally as the bed cools. The textured surface gives mechanical adhesion without chemical bonding. Clean with isopropyl alcohol and lightly scuff with 400-grit sandpaper if adhesion drops. Bed temp: 135-145°C. This is the standard for experienced PC users.
• PEI (Textured) with Magigoo PC: Standard textured PEI can work with PC, but only with a high-temperature adhesive. Magigoo PC (purple formula, rated to 160°C) provides excellent adhesion during printing and releases when cooled below 60°C. Apply a thin coat before each print. Clean PEI thoroughly before application. Bed temp: 130-140°C. Note: PC can fuse permanently to PEI without a release agent — always use Magigoo or similar.
• Glass with PEI film and high-temp adhesive: A borosilicate glass bed with a PEI sheet on top, plus a layer of Magigoo PC. This combination provides the flatness of glass with the adhesion properties of PEI. The glass also helps distribute heat evenly across the build surface. Bed temp: 140-150°C. Glass thickness: minimum 4mm to prevent thermal cracking.
• PEEK/PEKK Build Plate: For dedicated high-temperature printing, a PEEK or PEKK build plate provides excellent adhesion for PC without adhesives. These are expensive ($100-200) but last indefinitely. Available from specialty 3D printing suppliers. Bed temp: 150°C.

Critical PC bed adhesion tips: (1) Always preheat the bed to the target temperature and let it stabilize for 15-20 minutes before printing. The chamber must also reach steady temperature — a cold chamber causes the PC to warp off the bed. (2) Use a 10-20mm brim on all parts. PC needs more brim than ABS because it has higher internal stress. (3) Ensure your first layer Z offset is perfect — too high and the PC won't adhere, too low and the nozzle will drag through the sticky PC. (4) Monitor the first layer closely — if corners lift, pause the print and apply more adhesive to the lifted area.

Layer Adhesion in PC

Polycarbonate can achieve near-monolithic layer adhesion when printed correctly. The key factors:

• Hotend temperature dominates layer bonding: PC requires 275°C minimum for adequate layer adhesion. At 280-290°C, layer bonding is excellent — printed parts behave almost like machined PC. At 270°C or below, layers may separate under stress, especially in thin wall sections. If you see layer delamination during post-processing (drilling, tapping, sanding), increase hotend temperature by 5-10°C.
• Chamber temperature reduces internal stress: A 70°C chamber ensures that each deposited layer cools slowly enough for polymer chains to entangle across the layer boundary. At 50°C chamber temperature, PC parts show visible layer lines and significantly reduced Z-strength. The chamber temperature is as important as the hotend temperature for PC.
• Cooling fan should be off for best strength: The part cooling fan should remain at 0% for the entire print. PC naturally has a matte, slightly textured surface — cooling just adds layer-line visibility without improving anything. Only enable the fan (10-20%) for extreme overhangs or bridges, and even then, minimize usage.
• Layer height for strength: 0.2-0.25mm layer height (0.4mm nozzle) provides the best balance of layer bonding and print speed. Thinner layers (0.12-0.16mm) create more layer boundaries per unit height, slightly reducing Z-strength. Thicker layers (0.3mm+) may reduce bonding because each layer cools more before the next is deposited.
• Print speed affects layer adhesion: Slower printing (40-60 mm/s) improves layer adhesion because the hotend stays close to the deposited layer longer, keeping it hot for better bonding. For parts that need maximum strength, print perimeters at 40-50 mm/s and reduce volumetric flow to stay within the hotend's melting capacity.

Slicer Profiles for PC on Voron

PC-CF (Carbon Fiber Filled) — The Best Voron Material

Carbon-fiber-filled polycarbonate (PC-CF) is arguably the best material for Voron structural parts. Here is why it is preferred over standard PC:

• Reduced warping: The carbon fiber content (typically 10-20% by weight) reduces the coefficient of thermal expansion by approximately 40-50% compared to standard PC. This means PC-CF warps significantly less during printing, making it more forgiving on large parts.
• Increased stiffness: PC-CF has a Young's modulus of approximately 5-7 GPa (vs 2-2.5 GPa for standard PC). This means parts are noticeably stiffer — ideal for gantry components, AB drive mounts, and extruder bodies that must minimize flex under load.
• Matte surface finish: PC-CF produces a uniform matte black (or dark gray) surface that hides layer lines and looks professional. No post-processing needed for a clean appearance.
• Dimensional stability: PC-CF parts hold their dimensions better than standard PC after printing, with less post-print shrinkage. This is critical for Voron printed parts that must fit together precisely.
• Printing differences: PC-CF requires a hardened nozzle (0.5-0.6mm recommended to reduce clog risk from carbon fibers). Print temperature is slightly higher: 290-300°C. Bed temperature: 145-150°C. The material is more viscous than standard PC, so max volumetric flow is lower (10-12 mm³/s max).

Recommended PC-CF brands: Polymaker PC-CF (the most popular, excellent consistency, prints at 280-300°C, $55-70/kg), 3DXTech PC-CF (premium American-made, excellent layer adhesion, $65-85/kg), MatterHackers PC-CF (good balance of price and performance, $50-65/kg), and Priline PC-CF (budget option from China, $30-45/kg — requires more aggressive drying and careful tuning).

Annealing PC Parts

Annealing PC parts improves their heat resistance and dimensional stability. The process relieves internal stresses from the printing process and allows the polymer chains to reorganize into a more stable configuration.

• Annealing temperature: 120-130°C for 2-4 hours. This is below the glass transition temperature (~147°C) but high enough to promote stress relaxation. Do NOT exceed 135°C, as the part may deform or slump under its own weight.
• Method: Place the part on a bed of PTFE powder or between two glass plates (with a release agent) to prevent warping during annealing. Heat in a convection oven with accurate temperature control. Use a separate oven thermometer to verify temperature.
• Cooling: Let the part cool in the oven with the door ajar over 2-3 hours. Rapid cooling can reintroduce thermal stress. The part must reach below 50°C before handling.
• Shrinkage: Expect 0.3-0.5% shrinkage in all dimensions during annealing. For Voron printed parts that require tight tolerances, either print slightly oversize or anneal before final machining/drilling.
• Benefits: Annealed PC parts can withstand continuous service temperatures up to 130°C (vs ~100°C for as-printed PC). This makes them suitable for use inside high-temperature Voron chambers, near the hotend, or in automotive engine bay applications.

Post-Processing PC

Polycarbonate is easy to post-process. It can be drilled, tapped, sanded, and painted. Key tips:

• Drilling and tapping: PC is tough but not brittle. Use sharp drill bits and cutting oil. For tapped holes, use a roll-form tap (which displaces material rather than cutting it) for the strongest threads. Standard cut taps also work well — use a lubricant and back the tap out frequently to clear chips.
• Sanding: Start with 180-grit, progress to 400, then 800 for a smooth finish. Wet sanding reduces dust and gives a finer finish. The matte surface of PC-CF is difficult to polish to gloss — standard PC polishes well with 1000-2000 grit followed by plastic polish compound.
• Painting: PC accepts paint well. Clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol, apply a plastic primer (Rust-Oleum or Krylon), then paint. PC-CF requires no primer if you want to keep the matte black finish.
• Solvent bonding: PC can be bonded with dichloromethane or specialized PC solvent cement (IPS Weld-On #3 or #4). The solvent chemically fuses the two PC pieces, creating a weld that is as strong as the base material. This is useful for assembling large Voron enclosures or ducts from multiple printed parts.