Voron Nylon Printing Guide — PA, PA-CF, and PA-GF on Voron

Materials Printing Advanced

Nylon (Polyamide, PA) is a high-performance engineering thermoplastic prized for its exceptional toughness, chemical resistance, and low coefficient of friction. On a Voron, nylon is used for functional parts that must withstand wear (bushings, gears, bearing holders), chemical exposure (enclosure filtration components), or flexural stress (hinges, clips, snap-fit assemblies). However, nylon is notoriously difficult to print — it is extremely hygroscopic, prone to warping, and requires precise temperature control. Last updated: May 2025.

This guide covers the different types of nylon (PA6, PA12, PA66, PA-CF, PA-GF), mandatory drying procedures, bed adhesion techniques, print temperature settings, warping prevention, layer adhesion optimization, and the best nylon filament brands for Voron printers. We also cover nylon vs PC and when to choose each material for Voron parts.

Nylon Types — Which One to Choose for Voron

• PA6 (Nylon 6): The most common 3D printing nylon. Good balance of strength, toughness, and printability. Melting point ~220°C, glass transition ~50°C (dry) to -30°C (wet — Tg drops as nylon absorbs water). PA6 absorbs up to 9.5% moisture by weight, which acts as a plasticizer — wet PA6 is flexible and rubbery, while dry PA6 is stiff and strong. For Voron parts, dry PA6 is the target. Brands: Polymaker PA6, eSun ePA6, MatterHackers NylonX.
• PA12 (Nylon 12): Lower moisture absorption (1.5% vs 9.5% for PA6), better dimensional stability, and higher impact resistance. PA12 is more expensive but easier to print because it warps less and is less sensitive to moisture. The lower moisture absorption means PA12 parts maintain their dimensions better in humid environments. Brands: Polymaker PA12, BASF Ultramid PA12.
• PA66 (Nylon 66): Higher melting point (~260°C) and better heat resistance than PA6. PA66 is stiffer and stronger but more difficult to print — it requires higher temperatures and has a narrower printing window. Less common in 3D printing because of these challenges. Brands: Taulman 910 (a PA66 alloy).
• PA-CF (Carbon Fiber Filled Nylon): Nylon reinforced with 10-20% chopped carbon fiber. The carbon fiber increases stiffness (modulus ~5-6 GPa vs ~1.5 GPa for unfilled PA6), reduces warping (lower CTE), and improves dimensional stability. PA-CF is the most popular nylon for Voron structural parts because it prints more reliably than unfilled nylon. Brands: Polymaker PA6-CF, MatterHackers NylonX (PA6 + CF), eSun ePA-CF.
• PA-GF (Glass Fiber Filled Nylon): Nylon reinforced with glass fibers. Similar stiffness to PA-CF but with lower cost and different surface finish (more textured, lighter color). Glass fibers are harder on nozzles than carbon fibers. PA-GF has excellent heat resistance (HDT up to 160°C). Brands: Polymaker PA6-GF, Fiberlogy Nylon GF.

Recommendation for Voron: Start with PA-CF. It is the most forgiving filled nylon variant and produces excellent Voron parts. If you need the highest toughness (impact resistance), choose PA12. If you need maximum heat resistance or are on a budget, PA6-GF is a strong contender.

Nylon vs PC — When to Choose Nylon

• Choose nylon when: You need toughness (impact resistance) over rigidity, you need chemical resistance (nylon resists oils, fuels, and solvents better than PC), you need low friction surfaces (nylon has a naturally low coefficient of friction, good for bushings and sliding parts), or you need flexibility (nylon is more ductile than PC — it bends before breaking).
• Choose PC when: You need higher temperature resistance (PC Tg ~147°C vs PA Tg ~50-70°C), higher rigidity for the same wall thickness, UV resistance (nylon degrades in UV without additives), or better dimensional stability (PC absorbs less moisture than PA6).
• Nylon vs PC for Voron printed parts: For Voron structural parts (gantry mounts, AB drive units, extruder bodies), PC-CF is the better choice due to higher temperature resistance and stiffness. For non-structural functional parts (tool holders, cable chains, fan ducts, latches), nylon is excellent because of its toughness and wear resistance.

Mandatory Drying — Nylon is the Most Hygroscopic Material

Nylon is the most moisture-sensitive material commonly used in 3D printing. PA6 can absorb up to 9.5% of its weight in water — that is nearly 100g of water per kilogram spool. Printing with wet nylon causes:

• Loud popping and sizzling from the hotend as water turns to steam
• Severe surface defects: bubbles, pitting, and rough, frothy extrusion
• Catastrophic loss of layer adhesion (water interferes with polymer chain bonding at the layer interface)
• Extreme stringing and oozing (steam pressure pushes filament out of the nozzle)
• Brittleness — wet nylon loses 50-80% of its impact strength
• Diameter swelling — moist nylon filament can expand enough to jam in the PTFE tube or extruder

Drying procedure: Nylon must be dried before every print session. Dry PA6/PA66 at 70-80°C for 8-12 hours. Dry PA12 at 60-70°C for 6-8 hours. Dry PA-CF at 70-80°C for 10-12 hours (the carbon fiber does not reduce moisture absorption — the nylon matrix still needs thorough drying). Use a filament dryer that can maintain these temperatures (PrintDry Pro, Sunlu S2 modified with higher temp firmware, or a convection oven). A kitchen oven at 75°C works well — preheat and verify temperature with an oven thermometer. Do NOT exceed 85°C, as nylon can sinter or degrade.

Printing from dry storage: You must feed nylon directly from a dry box during printing. A sealed dry box with 0% internal humidity (silica gel desiccant + hygrometer) and a PTFE tube passthrough is mandatory. Nylon absorbs moisture so rapidly that a spool left on the printer's spool holder for 1-2 hours during a print will absorb enough moisture to cause defects in the later layers of a long print. Use a dry box with a desiccant chamber and a digital hygrometer to monitor internal humidity.

Printer Requirements for Nylon

• All-metal hotend: Nylon prints at 260-300°C depending on the variant. PTFE-lined heatbreaks will degrade and offgas at these temperatures. Use a Dragon HF, Rapido, Mosquito, Goliath, or Copperhead with all-metal heatbreak. For PA-CF, use a hardened steel nozzle (0.5-0.6mm) to prevent wear and clogging from carbon fibers.
• Bed heater capable of 100-120°C: Standard Voron beds handle these temperatures easily. Use a PID calibration at the target temperature before printing.
• Chamber temperature of 50-70°C: Nylon warps significantly without a hot chamber. The Voron V2.4/Trident enclosure can maintain 50-70°C with the bed at 100-120°C. The V0.2 will reach these temperatures easily. Supplemental chamber heating may be needed in cold rooms for large parts.
• Enclosed printer required: Like ABS, nylon requires a draft-free, temperature-stable environment. Do NOT attempt nylon on an open-frame Switchwire without an enclosure. Even a cardboard box enclosure is better than nothing, but a proper Voron enclosure is strongly recommended.
• Hardened extruder gears: PA-CF and PA-GF are abrasive. Use hardened steel extruder gears (Clockwork 2 steel drive gear, Galileo 2 hardened gears, or the Bondtech LGX with hardened gears). Standard brass gears will wear noticeably within a few spools of filled nylon.

Print Temperature Settings

Bed Adhesion for Nylon

Nylon adhesion is notoriously difficult. The material has low surface energy and shrinks significantly during cooling. Here are the methods that work:

• Garolite G10/FR4 (Recommended for PA-CF): This is the best surface for filled nylon (PA-CF, PA-GF). G10 provides excellent mechanical grip at 100-110°C bed temperature and releases cleanly when cool. Lightly scuff with 220-grit sandpaper if adhesion drops. For unfilled nylon (PA6, PA12), G10 works but may need adhesive assistance.
• PEI (Textured) with Magigoo Nylon: Textured PEI can work with nylon if you use Magigoo's nylon-specific formula (blue applicator). Apply a thin coat before each print. The adhesive creates a strong bond during printing that releases when the bed cools below 50°C. Without Magigoo, nylon may fuse permanently to PEI.
• PVA Glue Stick (Elmer's or similar): A thick layer of standard PVA glue stick (washable school glue) on a smooth PEI or glass bed works well for nylon. The PVA dissolves in water for easy cleanup. Apply 2-3 coats, let dry to a milky white, then print. The PVA layer provides mechanical grip and acts as a release agent. Reapply every print. This is the most accessible and reliable method for unfilled nylon.
• ABS Slurry on BuildTak or Garolite: For extremely stubborn nylon adhesion (large flat parts), apply a thin layer of ABS slurry (ABS dissolved in acetone) to a Garolite or BuildTak surface. The slurry creates a high-friction surface that nylon grips well. Clean with acetone after printing.
• Nylon-Specific Build Surfaces: Some manufacturers make dedicated nylon build surfaces. Polymaker's Nylon Adhesion Sheet (a flexible PEI-like sheet with a special textured coating) works very well but is expensive ($40-60).

Brim is mandatory for nylon: Even with perfect adhesion, nylon will warp on large parts without a brim. Use a 10-20mm brim (outer brim, 0mm gap) for all nylon parts. For very large flat parts (Voron deck panels, enclosure panels), consider 25-30mm brim with mouse ear tabs at each corner.

Warping Prevention for Nylon

Nylon shrinks more than ABS during printing (1.5-2.5% vs 0.6-0.8% for ABS). This makes warping the primary challenge. Here are the most effective strategies:

• Chamber preheating to 60°C minimum: Preheat the chamber with the bed at 110°C for 30-45 minutes before starting the print. The chamber must be uniformly hot — cold spots cause differential shrinkage. Use a chamber thermistor and verify the temperature with a TEMPERATURE_WAIT macro before starting the print.
• Use PA-CF instead of unfilled nylon: The carbon fiber content reduces the CTE by approximately 50%, drastically reducing warping. If you're struggling with warping on unfilled PA6 or PA12, switch to PA-CF — it is significantly easier to print.
• Slow down the first 20 layers: Set the first 20 layers to 50% speed (20-30 mm/s). This ensures the base of the part stays warm and well-bonded to the bed while the upper layers accumulate. The critical warping period is the first 5-10mm of height.
• Reduce infill on large flat parts: High infill density (40%+) increases internal stress in large parts. Use 15-25% gyroid or hexagonal infill for most nylon parts. The sparse infill reduces the total shrinkage force pulling on the corners.
• Part orientation: Orient parts so the longest dimension runs diagonally across the build plate. Avoid sharp 90° internal corners — add 5-10mm fillets to all internal corners in CAD to reduce stress concentration.
• Enclosure insulation: Adding reflective insulation panels to the enclosure improves temperature stability. Nylon is more sensitive to temperature fluctuations than ABS — consistent chamber temperature is critical.

Layer Adhesion in Nylon

Nylon can achieve excellent layer adhesion — the polymer chains naturally diffuse across layer boundaries when printed at the right temperature. Key factors:

• Hotend temperature is the most important factor: For PA6, print at 265-275°C for best layer adhesion. At 255°C, layer adhesion is adequate. Below 250°C, layers may separate. For PA-CF, 280-290°C gives the best results. The higher melt temperature increases polymer chain mobility at the layer boundary, creating a stronger weld.
• Chamber temperature controls layer cooling rate: A 60-65°C chamber ensures that each deposited layer stays warm enough for the next layer to bond effectively. If the chamber is below 50°C, the part surface cools too quickly and layer adhesion suffers.
• Part cooling fan reduces adhesion: Keep the fan at 0% for the entire print. The only exception is PA12, which can tolerate up to 20% fan for overhangs. PA-CF and PA6 should never have fan cooling during normal printing.
• Layer height affects bond strength: 0.2mm layer height (0.4mm nozzle) provides the best balance. Thinner layers (0.12mm) actually reduce Z-strength because each layer is thinner, creating more layer boundaries per unit height. Thicker layers (0.3mm+) may not bond as well because each layer cools more before the next is deposited.
• Print speed affects bonding time: Slower speeds (40-60 mm/s) give each layer more time to bond with the previous layer. For parts requiring maximum Z-strength, print perimeters at 40 mm/s and reduce volumetric flow to stay within the hotend's melting capacity.

Slicer Profiles for Nylon on Voron

Annealing Nylon Parts

Annealing nylon significantly improves heat resistance, dimensional stability, and mechanical strength. The process allows the polymer chains to crystallize further, increasing density and stiffness.

• Annealing temperature: 80-90°C for PA6, 70-80°C for PA12. Hold for 2-4 hours. Do NOT exceed 100°C for PA6 or 90°C for PA12, as the part may deform.
• Method: Place the part on a bed of silica gel beads or between two glass plates (with PTFE sheet as release) in a convection oven. The slow heating and cooling cycle is important — ramp up at 5°C/min, hold, then cool at 2°C/min.
• Under vacuum or inert atmosphere (ideal): Nylon oxidizes at high temperatures. Annealing under vacuum or in a nitrogen-purged environment produces the best results. In a standard oven, the outer surface may yellow slightly from oxidation — this is cosmetic only.
• Shrinkage: Expect 0.5-1.5% shrinkage during annealing (more for PA6, less for PA12 and PA-CF). Account for shrinkage in your CAD model if the part must meet precise dimensions.
• Moisture conditioning after annealing: Annealed nylon is very dry and may become brittle. For parts that need impact resistance (not just stiffness), condition the annealed part by placing it in a 50% humidity environment for 24-48 hours. This allows the nylon to absorb 2-3% moisture, restoring its toughness without sacrificing the improved heat resistance from annealing.

Post-Processing Nylon

• Drilling and tapping: Nylon is tough and flexible. Use sharp drills at moderate speed. For threaded holes, use thread inserts (brass heat-set inserts work well — install at 240-260°C). Nylon also accepts self-tapping screws well.
• Sanding: Nylon produces a fuzzy surface when sanded because the material is tough and stringy. Wet sanding (400-800-1200 grit) produces a smooth finish. For PA-CF, sanding reveals the carbon fiber texture, which can be a desirable aesthetic.
• Painting: Nylon has low surface energy and paint does not adhere well without preparation. Use a plastic primer or lightly flame-treat the surface (briefly pass a propane torch over the surface to oxidize it) before painting. For best results, use flexible paints designed for polypropylene/nylon.
• Dyeing: Nylon can be dyed with fabric dyes (Rit DyeMore Synthetic). Place the part in 80°C dye water for 30-60 minutes. This is a great way to color PA-CF parts (which start as matte black) into custom colors. PA6 and PA12 dye well; PA-CF takes dye but the color is darker on the carbon fiber areas.

Recommended Nylon Brands

• Polymaker PA6-CF: The gold standard for carbon fiber nylon on Voron printers. Excellent consistency, low warp, beautiful matte finish, and reliable printing at 280-290°C. Pre-dried and vacuum-sealed. Price: $55-70/kg. The top recommendation for Voron structural parts.
• MatterHackers NylonX: A PA6 + carbon fiber blend with excellent layer adhesion and impact strength. Slightly easier to print than Polymaker PA6-CF (lower temperature requirement, ~270°C). Available in multiple colors (the carbon fiber is pre-colored). Price: $55-75/kg.
• eSun ePA-CF: A budget-friendly PA-CF option from a brand well-known to Voron builders. Good consistency for the price, prints at 265-285°C. Slightly more prone to stringing than premium brands but excellent value. Price: $35-50/kg.
• Polymaker PA12: The best unfilled nylon for Voron. Lower moisture absorption (1.5%) means easier printing and more stable part dimensions. Excellent impact resistance. Prints at 240-260°C. Expensive but the highest quality unfilled nylon available. Price: $65-85/kg.
• 3DXTech PA6-GF: Glass fiber filled nylon with excellent heat resistance (HDT ~155°C). Prints at 270-290°C. More affordable than PA-CF with similar stiffness. The glass fiber content gives a textured beige surface. Price: $50-65/kg.
• Priline PA-CF: An economy option from China. Requires aggressive drying (12+ hours at 80°C) and careful tuning. Diameter tolerance is wider than premium brands (±0.05mm vs ±0.02mm). Good for large parts where absolute precision is not critical. Price: $28-40/kg.