Top 10 Must-Print Mods for Voron V2.4 — 2025 Edition

V2.4 Mods Upgrades

The Voron V2.4 is already one of the most capable open-source 3D printers you can build. But what makes the Voron ecosystem truly special is the community. Hundreds of user-designed mods exist for the V2.4 — some solve real problems, some add genuinely useful features, and some are just for looks. We've tested, researched, and ranked the 10 best mods that every V2.4 owner should consider printing. Last updated: May 2025.

This list focuses on functional mods that improve print quality, printer reliability, or the user experience. We've excluded purely aesthetic mods (colored skirts, decorative panels) and mods that require significant hardware investment (enclosure swaps, full toolhead replacements). Each entry includes what the mod does, why you need it, where to find the STLs, difficulty level, and estimated cost. Let's get into it.

1. Nevermore Carbon Filter (V5 or V6)

What it does: The Nevermore is an activated carbon recirculation filter that scrubs VOCs, fumes, and odors from the enclosure air during printing. It mounts between the Z extrusions and uses a 5015 fan to pull chamber air through a bed of activated carbon pellets, removing the styrene and other volatile compounds released by ABS and other high-temperature filaments.

Why you need it: ABS printing produces styrene fumes that are harmful to breathe and unpleasant for anyone sharing the room. The V2.4's sealed enclosure traps these fumes — without filtration, opening the enclosure releases a concentrated burst of VOCs into your workspace. The Nevermore runs continuously during printing, keeping the enclosure air significantly cleaner. It also helps distribute heat more evenly by circulating air through the chamber.

STLs: Voron User Mods GitHub — search "Nevermore V5" or "Nevermore V6". Files for both 2020 and 3030 extrusion mounts are included. Difficulty: Easy (2/5). Print 6-8 parts in ABS/ASA, assemble with a 5015 fan and ~120g of carbon. Cost: $10-15 for the fan and carbon. Print time: ~6 hours for the parts. This is the single most important mod for anyone printing ABS. Install it before anything else on this list.

2. Gearbox / Z Drive Cover

What it does: A printed cover that fits over the Z drive gearboxes at the top corners of the V2.4 frame. The stock Z drive pulleys and belts are exposed — this cover encloses them in a clean shell that matches the V2.4's aesthetic.

Why you need it: Two reasons. First, protection: open Z drive pulleys can catch loose wires, zip tie ends, or filament scraps that fall into the printer. A stray bit of filament in the Z pulley can cause belt skipping and a crashed print. Second, appearance: the V2.4's open-frame design shows every component, and exposed Z pulleys look unfinished. The gearbox cover gives the printer a polished, professional look. It also slightly reduces Z drive noise by containing the pulley sound.

STLs: Voron User Mods GitHub — search "V2.4 Z Drive Cover". Multiple variants exist: some snap on, some use M3 screws. Choose the one that matches your frame color and extrusion type. Difficulty: Very Easy (1/5). Cost: ~$0.50 in filament. Print time: ~2 hours for four covers (one per corner). This is a quick weekend print that immediately improves the look and safety of your build.

3. Cable Chain Y-Split

What it does: A small printed bracket that clips onto the cable chain at the Y-axis bridge point, creating a Y-shaped split that organizes the toolhead cables into two clean bundles secured with zip ties.

Why you need it: The V2.4's cable chain carries all toolhead wiring (hotend heater, thermistor, fans, probe, stepper motor, LEDs, and CAN bus if equipped). Without organized cabling, the wires bunch up at the chain exit point, causing unnecessary drag, increasing the chance of wire fatigue at the bend point, and making cable management look messy. The Y-split separates the wiring into two logical groups (power/heavy wires on one side, signal wires on the other) and secures them with zip ties so they don't migrate inside the chain.

STLs: Voron User Mods GitHub — search "V2.4 Cable Chain Y Split" or "Cable Chain Guide". Many variations exist for different chain widths (the standard V2.4 uses a 10mm-wide chain). Difficulty: Easy (1/5). Cost: ~$0.25 in filament. Print time: ~1 hour. One of the cheapest mods on this list with disproportionately large quality-of-life benefits.

4. Handle Mods (Top Frame Handles)

What it does: Printed handles that bolt onto the top 2020 extrusions of the V2.4 frame, giving you ergonomic grip points for lifting and moving the printer.

Why you need it: A fully-built V2.4 weighs 18-25 kg (40-55 lbs) depending on your enclosure panels, bed size, and electronics. Without handles, moving the printer is awkward and risky — you're grabbing the bare aluminum extrusions, putting pressure on the panel clips, and risking damage to the wiring or gantry. Handles let two people lift the printer safely, or one person reposition it on a desk with proper grip. They're especially important if you ever need to move the printer from a workbench to its final location.

STLs: Voron User Mods GitHub — search "V2.4 Handle". Most designs use M5 or M3 T-nuts to attach to the top extrusion slots. Some include integrated cable management slots for the Z motor wiring. Difficulty: Easy (2/5). Cost: ~$2 in filament + $3-5 for M5 T-nuts and screws. Print time: ~4 hours for a pair. Print in ABS or PETG — PLA handles can deform if left in a hot car or sunny room.

5. Panel Clip Quick-Release

What it does: Replaces the stock M3 screws that secure the enclosure panels to the 2020 extrusions with tool-less snap-in clips. The panels clip into the extrusion slots and release with finger pressure.

Why you need it: The stock V2.4 uses M3 screws through the panel edges into T-nuts in the extrusions. Removing all six panels requires unscrewing 16-24 screws, which takes 5-10 minutes. With quick-release clips, you can remove any panel in under 5 seconds. This matters more than you'd think: you'll access the printer more often for maintenance, troubleshooting, and bed cleaning if it takes 5 seconds instead of 5 minutes. The quick-release clips also eliminate stripped screw holes and loose T-nuts over time.

STLs: Voron User Mods GitHub — search "V2.4 Quick Release Panel Clips" or "Panel Clip". Several designs exist with different grip strengths. Some use a single-piece snap-fit design; others use a clip + wedge that creates a tight friction fit. Difficulty: Easy (2/5). Cost: ~$1 in filament for all clips. Print time: ~2 hours for a full set. Print in ABS or ASA — the clips experience chamber heat and may soften in PLA.

6. Skirt Fan Mount (115mm / 120mm Fan)

What it does: A printed bracket that mounts a standard 120mm (or 115mm) PC case fan inside the electronics bay skirt, providing active cooling for the mainboard, Raspberry Pi, and PSU.

Why you need it: The V2.4's electronics bay is under the printer, enclosed by the skirts. In a closed enclosure, ambient temperatures inside the printer can reach 40-60°C during ABS printing. Without active airflow, the mainboard MOSFETs, stepper drivers, Raspberry Pi, and PSU can exceed their safe operating temperatures (85°C for many stepper drivers, 70°C for Raspberry Pis). A skirt fan pulls cool air from outside the enclosure and pushes it through the electronics bay, keeping temperatures well within safe limits. This is the cheapest insurance against fried electronics.

STLs: Voron User Mods GitHub — search "V2.4 Skirt Fan Mount". Most designs fit a standard 120mm x 25mm fan into the front or side skirt panel. Some include a fan grille and finger guard. Difficulty: Easy (2/5). Cost: $8-15 for a 120mm fan (Noctua NF-S12A or Arctic P12 are popular choices) + ~$0.50 in filament. Print time: ~3 hours. Wire the fan to a always-on 24V or 12V output (or use a controller_fan in Klipper to run it only when the printer is on).

7. Dreamea Purge Bucket and Nozzle Wipe

What it does: A two-piece mod consisting of a purge bucket (collects filament purge waste at the edge of the build plate) and a brass-brush nozzle wipe (cleans the nozzle before printing). Originally popularized by Filastruder as their "Purge Bucket & Nozzle Scrubber" kit, the Dreamea version is the community's open-source redesign.

Why you need it: Every print start involves a purge line to prime the extruder. Without a purge bucket, this filament either gets discarded manually or falls onto the build plate, where it can interfere with bed leveling or get stuck to the print. A designated purge bucket collects waste cleanly. The nozzle wipe (a small brass brush mounted near the purge bucket) removes stuck filament and debris from the nozzle tip before printing begins, preventing blobs on the first layer. Together, they enable fully automated print start sequences — load filament, home, wipe nozzle, purge, and start printing with zero manual intervention.

STLs: Voron User Mods GitHub or Printables — search "Dreamea Purge Bucket V2.4" or "V2.4 Nozzle Wipe". The bucket mounts to the front extrusion at the edge of the bed travel. The wipe mounts nearby with a small brass brush (typically a 6mm or 8mm brass wire brush from a hardware store). Difficulty: Easy (2/5). Cost: ~$1 in filament + $2-4 for a brass brush. Print time: ~2 hours. Add a PURGE and NOZZLE_WIPE macro to your PRINT_START sequence to automate the process.

8. Spring Steel PEI Sheet (Magnetic Modular Bed)

What it does: A removable spring steel build plate with PEI coating, held to the aluminum bed by a magnetic adhesive sheet. The steel sheet flexes to pop prints off, eliminating the need for a scraper.

Why you need it: The stock V2.4 bed surface is a glass-filled polycarbonate sheet (for the 350mm build) or a PEI-coated aluminum plate (for the 250mm/300mm builds). Both work, but they have drawbacks: you need a scraper to remove prints (risking bed or print damage), and you can't easily swap bed surfaces for different materials. A spring steel PEI sheet solves both problems: you flex the sheet to pop prints off (even large ABS parts release cleanly at room temperature), and you can swap between smooth PEI, textured PEI, and PEO sheets for different surface finishes. The magnetic hold is strong enough for 250mm/s accelerations without the sheet shifting.

STLs: No printed parts required for the basic setup, though some users print alignment guides or lift tabs. Buy the spring steel sheet pre-cut for your V2.4 size (250mm, 300mm, or 350mm) from LDO, Fystec, or a supplier like Wham Bam or Energetic. Difficulty: Easy (1/5). Cost: $25-45 for a complete spring steel kit (magnetic base + steel sheet). Print time: N/A. This is the single best upgrade for first-layer adhesion and print removal. It also protects your expensive aluminum bed from scraper damage.

9. Quick-Connect Z Probe Mount

What it does: A tool-free mounting system for your Z probe (Klicky, Euclid, or Omron inductive probe) that lets you remove and reinstall the probe without any tools. Uses a spring-loaded latch or magnetic retention.

Why you need it: Z probes need occasional cleaning, replacement, or swapping (e.g., switching from inductive to Klicky for a specific print). With a standard bolted mount, removing the probe means finding the right hex driver, reaching into the toolhead, and unscrewing tiny M3 bolts — a 5-10 minute job that gets old fast. A quick-connect mount lets you swap probes in 10 seconds. This is especially valuable for Klicky users who carry multiple probe types (standard Klicky for daily use, a high-temp variant for Ultem printing). The quick-connect also eliminates stripped threads in the probe mount over repeated changes.

STLs: Voron User Mods GitHub — search "V2.4 Quick Connect Probe" or "Tool-less Probe Mount". Works with both the Stealthburner and Afterburner toolheads. Difficulty: Medium (3/5). The latch mechanism needs careful tuning — too tight and it won't latch, too loose and the probe wobbles. Cost: ~$0.50 in filament + optional small magnets (6x3mm) for retention. Print time: ~1 hour. Test the latch mechanism with the probe before installing on the toolhead.

10. Toolhead PCB Mount for SB2040 / EBB36

What it does: A printed bracket that mounts a CAN bus toolhead board (SB2040, EBB36, or EBB42) directly to the Stealthburner toolhead, replacing the stock wire routing with a clean, organized PCB mount.

Why you need it: If you've upgraded to CAN bus toolhead wiring (which we highly recommend — see our CAN Bus Setup Guide), the CAN board needs a secure mounting location on the toolhead. Without a dedicated mount, the board dangles from its wires, gets in the way during toolhead maintenance, and adds unnecessary cable strain. A proper mount secures the board to the Stealthburner's back plate or side, routes the CAN cable cleanly, and provides strain relief for the toolhead wiring (hotend, fans, probe). The result is a toolhead that looks professional, is easier to work on, and has better wire management that reduces snagging and wear.

STLs: Voron User Mods GitHub — search "SB2040 Mount Stealthburner" or "EBB36 V2.4 Mount". There are dozens of variants optimized for different CAN boards, toolhead fan orientations, and probe positions. Choose one that matches your specific hardware. Difficulty: Easy to Medium (2/5). Cost: ~$0.50 in filament. Print time: ~1.5 hours. Print in ABS or ASA — the toolhead area gets hot (80-100°C chamber temperature near the print area), and PLA mounts will deform over time.

Honorable Mentions

A few mods that didn't make the top 10 but are still worth considering:

• LED strip mounts: Diffused RGB LED strips mounted inside the enclosure for print visibility and a dramatic aesthetic upgrade. Nearly every V2.4 owner eventually adds LEDs. Cost: $10-20. Difficulty: Easy.
• Top hat extension: A 60-100mm Z height extension that replaces the top panel with a raised box, giving more Z clearance for tall prints. Especially useful with the 350mm V2.4. Cost: $20-40 in acrylic panels + printed corner brackets. Difficulty: Medium.
• Electronics bay shelf: A printed shelf inside the electronics bay that raises the Raspberry Pi and mainboard off the bottom panel for better airflow and cleaner cable routing. Cost: ~$1 in filament. Difficulty: Easy.
• Filament spool holder (external): A bracket that moves the filament spool from the top of the frame to an external holder, reducing the Z height required for the enclosure and making filament changes easier. Cost: $5-10 in hardware. Difficulty: Medium.
• Z chain drag chain mount: A bracket that guides the Z cable chain (for the bed wiring) through its full travel, preventing the chain from sagging or binding at maximum Z height. Cost: ~$0.50 in filament. Difficulty: Easy.

Installation Tips for V2.4 Mods

• Print in ABS or ASA: The V2.4 enclosure reaches 50-65°C during ABS printing. PLA parts will soften and deform over time. PETG is borderline — it softens at 85°C, which is close to the peak chamber temperature in some builds. ABS and ASA are the safe choices. Use the same filament brand/color you used for the frame parts if you want a consistent look.
• Use the correct extrusion profiles: V2.4 uses 2020 extrusions for the frame and 2020 or 3030 for the Z supports. Verify whether a mod is designed for 2020 or 3030 before printing. Most mods specify in the description.
• Check for hardware conflicts: Some mods assume specific hardware configurations (e.g., Stealthburner toolhead, CAN bus, specific mainboard location). Read the mod documentation and check the Voron User Mods Discord channel for compatibility notes.
• Test with a dry run: Before assembling a mod on your printer, do a dry run — fit the printed parts together, check clearances, and verify screw alignment. Nothing worse than discovering a part doesn't fit after you've started disassembling the printer.
• Document your build: Keep a spreadsheet or notebook of every mod you install, the STL source, the print settings, and the date. When you need to troubleshoot or reprint a part, this information is invaluable.

The Voron V2.4 is at its best when it reflects your specific needs and preferences. The mods on this list represent the community consensus on the most valuable upgrades — start with the Nevermore and the spring steel PEI sheet, then work through the rest as you find time. Each one makes the printer more capable, more reliable, or more pleasant to use. Happy printing.