Voron AfterBurner to StealthBurner Upgrade

AfterBurner StealthBurner Toolhead Extruder CW2

The AfterBurner toolhead was the standard on Voron V2.4 and Trident printers for years. It served the community well — reliable, functional, and well-documented. But the StealthBurner (introduced in 2022) represents a significant leap forward in every metric: better part cooling, a more rigid extruder (Clockwork 2), improved probe mounting options, and a cleaner overall design. If your Voron is still running the original AfterBurner, upgrading to StealthBurner is one of the most impactful changes you can make. Last updated: May 2025.

This guide covers the complete AfterBurner-to-StealthBurner conversion: what changes, the parts you need (with China-direct pricing), how to transfer your existing hotend and stepper motor, step-by-step assembly and installation, Klipper config updates, and common mistakes to avoid.

What Is the StealthBurner Upgrade?

The StealthBurner is a complete toolhead redesign that replaces both the AfterBurner body and the Clockwork 1 (CW1) extruder. It introduces the Clockwork 2 (CW2) extruder with an integrated, more rigid lever arm system, dual 5015 blower fans for part cooling (vs. the AfterBurner’s single 5015), a dedicated recess for the EBB36 CAN bus board, and native TAP probe compatibility. The design is more aerodynamic, more serviceable, and produces better print quality at high speeds.

The upgrade is “bolt-on” for V2.4 and Trident owners: the StealthBurner uses the same carriage plate and mounting pattern as the AfterBurner. No modifications to the gantry or frame are needed. The same hotend, stepper motor, and fans transfer over (though you may choose to upgrade to dual 5015s for maximum cooling).

Benefits of Upgrading

Superior part cooling: The AfterBurner uses a single 5015 blower fan that directs air through a long, winding duct. The StealthBurner uses two 5015 blower fans with a short, direct airflow path. This results in approximately 2x the cooling capacity. For PETG, ABS, and ASA, this means better overhangs and sharper detail. For PLA (which needs aggressive cooling), it’s transformative — you can print PLA at the same speeds as ABS without heat-creep issues.

Clockwork 2 extruder: The CW2 is a significant mechanical improvement over the CW1. The lever arm design is more rigid, with the idler bearing mounted on a metal pin rather than a printed post. The filament path is more constrained, reducing the risk of buckling. The gear reduction ratio is optimized for the standard NEMA 17 pancake motor, giving better torque at the filament. Users report 30-40% fewer extruder jams with CW2 vs CW1.

Better probe mounting: The StealthBurner has native mounting points for Voron TAP, Klicky, and Euclid probes. No more zip-ties or custom brackets. TAP integration is particularly clean — the probe mounts directly inside the toolhead body, protected from accidental knocks.

CANBus ready: The StealthBurner body has a pre-designed recess for the BTT EBB36 CAN bus board. If you’re planning a CANBus conversion (and you should be), the StealthBurner makes it trivial.

Improved airflow over the hotend: The StealthBurner’s hotend fan is positioned to draw air across the heat sink more effectively than the AfterBurner. This reduces the risk of heat creep during long prints, especially in an enclosed chamber.

Parts Needed — China-Direct Pricing

The good news: most of the upgrade is printed parts. The hardware kit is small and inexpensive. Here’s the complete parts list with China-direct pricing:

If you already have a 5015 fan on your AfterBurner, you can reuse it and only buy one additional 5015 for the dual setup. The CW2 hardware kit is essential — the CW1 gears and spring are not compatible with the CW2 body. Don’t try to reuse CW1 hardware.

Difficulty Level and Time Required

Difficulty: Easy to Intermediate. The StealthBurner is well-documented with excellent assembly guides. If you can build an AfterBurner, you can build a StealthBurner. The hardest part is getting the CW2 lever arm tension right.

Time required: 3-4 hours for a careful first-time build, including reusing your existing hotend and stepper motor. If you’re also adding TAP or doing a CANBus swap simultaneously, budget 5-7 hours. Printing the parts takes 12-18 hours on the printer itself (print them in advance).

Step-by-Step Upgrade Process

Step 1: Print the StealthBurner Parts

The StealthBurner requires the following printed parts in ABS/ASA:

• Left body
• Right body
• Front visor / cowling
• Fan duct (left and right, or integrated)
• CW2 extruder body
• CW2 idler arm
• CW2 lever
• Hotend fan duct / shroud
• Optional: cable cover, probe mounts

Print settings: ABS/ASA at 100-105C chamber, 0.2mm layer height, 4 perimeters, 40% infill. Pay special attention to the fan duct overhangs — they may need supports. The CW2 extruder body needs clean layer adhesion on the bearing seat. Use a well-tuned printer; these parts are not forgiving of poor calibration.

Step 2: Remove the AfterBurner

Power down and disconnect all toolhead wires at the mainboard or intermediate connector. Remove the AfterBurner body, CW1 extruder, and fan assembly from the carriage plate. Remove the hotend, stepper motor, and fans — you’ll reuse these in the StealthBurner. Take the carriage plate off the gantry to access the mounting screws.

Step 3: Prepare the CW2 Extruder

Assemble the CW2 extruder:

• Insert the hobbed gear into the extruder body. Secure with the M3 grub screw (use Loctite).
• Install the bearing in the idler arm. The bearing should spin freely.
• Insert the metal pin through the idler arm and into the extruder body.
• Install the spring and adjuster screw. Start with 3-4mm compression.
• Mount your existing NEMA 17 stepper motor. If you’re using a slim/pancake motor (common on V2.4), the CW2 works fine with it. For full-length motors, check clearance with the frame.

Key difference from CW1: the CW2’s idler pivot is on the top of the extruder, not the bottom. The gear mesh is set by the pin position, not the spring tension. The spring only provides the clamping force on the filament.

Step 4: Assemble the StealthBurner Body

Follow the official StealthBurner assembly manual:

• Install the 5015 blower fans in the left and right body halves. The fans are directional — air must blow downward through the duct. Check the airflow arrow on the fan body.
• Install the 3010 hotend fan in the front of the body. This fan blows onto the heatsink.
• Mount the CW2 extruder assembly inside the left body half. Route the extruder stepper wires through the cable channel.
• Install your hotend (Dragon, Dragonfly, Rapido, Revo, etc.) through the top of the body. The hotend should seat firmly against the heatsink.
• Route the hotend heater and thermistor wires through the designated channels.
• Close the body with the right half and secure with M3 screws (4x M3x40mm, or the screws included with the kit).
• Attach the front visor and fan duct. The visor snaps into place — no screws needed on some versions.

Step 5: Install on the Carriage

Mount the completed StealthBurner to the carriage plate using the standard M3 mounting holes. If you’re using TAP, install the TAP plate between the carriage and the StealthBurner. The mounting pattern is identical to the AfterBurner — this is a drop-in replacement.

Step 6: Wire the Toolhead

Connect all toolhead components:

• Dual 5015 fans: These can share a PWM signal if your mainboard has only one fan header. Use a Y-split or a MOSFET. If your board has two independent fan channels, wire them separately for individual control.
• 3010 hotend fan: Wire to a dedicated always-on fan header, or to the same 24V input as the hotend heater (if you want it on whenever the hotend is hot).
• Extruder stepper: Connect to the stepper driver on your mainboard. The standard wiring is A1 (coil 1), A2 (coil 1 end), B1 (coil 2), B2 (coil 2 end).
• Hotend heater and thermistor: Same as before — connect to the mainboard’s heater and thermistor ports.

Step 7: Update Klipper Configuration

The StealthBurner uses the same hotend and stepper motor, so most of your printer.cfg stays the same. Key changes:

• Extruder rotation_distance: The CW2 uses a different gear ratio than CW1. Set rotation_distance: 22.68 as a starting value. Then calibrate with the 100mm extrusion test and adjust as needed. The exact value depends on your stepper motor (0.9 vs 1.8 degree).
• Part cooling fan: If you switched to dual 5015s, update the fan configuration. If both fans share one PWM pin, no change needed. If you added a second fan channel, add a [fan_generic part_cooling_1] section.
• Reverse fan direction: If air is blowing away from the part, swap the fan wire polarity. Blower fans are polarity-sensitive — reversing the wires reverses airflow (they’re not as efficient in reverse, but they work).

Compatibility Notes

V2.4: Drop-in compatible. All V2.4 serialized printers with AfterBurner can upgrade directly to StealthBurner. No frame or gantry modifications needed. The StealthBurner is slightly wider than the AfterBurner — check clearance with the Z chain mounts on older V2.4 builds (pre-serial). You may need to print the SB-specific Z chain bracket.

Trident: Identical mounting to V2.4. Drop-in compatible. The Trident’s fixed bed means no Z chain clearance issues.

Switchwire: The Switchwire’s toolhead mounting is different. You’ll need a Switchwire-specific carriage adapter. The StealthBurner Switchwire conversion is well-documented in the community, with several adapter plates available on Printables.

Hotend compatibility: The StealthBurner is compatible with all Voron-standard hotends. The mounting pattern uses two M3 screws with 30mm spacing (standard Voron pattern). If using a longer hotend (e.g., Dragon UHF, Rapido UHF), you may need the extended fan duct.

Probe compatibility: TAP is the native choice. Klicky works with a printed adapter. Euclid also works. The AfterBurner’s inductive probe mount is not compatible — you’ll need to switch to TAP or Klicky.

Before and After Comparison

Common Pitfalls

• CW2 spring too tight: The CW2 lever mechanism is different from the CW1. You don’t need the spring cranked down. Too much tension grinds filament and creates plastic dust that jams the extruder. Start with the spring just tight enough that the idler holds filament without slipping — about 3mm of compression. Only increase if you hear skipping during high-flow extrusion.
• 5015 fan direction wrong: Blower fans have a specific airflow direction. If your part cooling seems weak or the fan is loud, check the arrow on the fan housing. The air should exit through the rectangular port, not the back. Installing a 5015 backward means it’s running as an inefficient impeller instead of a blower.
• Visor not snapping in: The StealthBurner’s front visor is a press-fit design. If it doesn’t snap in cleanly, check that your printed parts aren’t warped. ABS shrinkage can cause the visor tabs to be too thick. Sand them down slightly with 200-grit sandpaper.
• Cable channel too tight: The StealthBurner’s cable channel is designed for the EBB36 or individual wires. If you’re using thick silicone wire or pre-bundled cables, the channel may be too tight. Use 22 AWG or thinner wire for signal cables and route carefully.
• Hotend not seating fully: The hotend must seat firmly against the heatsink inside the StealthBurner. If there’s a gap, heat transfer to the heatsink will be poor, leading to heat creep. Make sure the hotend’s upper shoulder contacts the heatsink directly — no gap.
• Z offset needs recalibration: The StealthBurner’s nozzle position relative to the probe is different from the AfterBurner. Re-run Z offset calibration after the swap. If using TAP, the offset should be very small (under 1mm).
• 5015 fans not spinning at low PWM: Some 5015 fans don’t reliably start at very low PWM values (below 10-15%). Add a min_power: 0.15 setting in your fan config to keep them spinning. If they still stall, check that you’re using 24V fans (not 12V) and that your PWM frequency is compatible (typically 25 kHz for Voron boards).