Voron Trident Build Guide — Complete Step by Step

Trident Beginner 20 min read

The Voron Trident is widely regarded as the best entry point into the Voron ecosystem. It shares the CoreXY motion system of the V2.4 but uses a simpler fixed-gantry-with-moving-bed design — three Z leadscrews in a triangle arrangement lift the bed while the gantry stays stationary. This makes the Trident significantly easier to build, align, and maintain, while still delivering exceptional print quality.

Last updated: May 2025. This guide covers the complete Trident build process from frame assembly to first print. We'll walk through each phase with practical tips, common mistakes to avoid, and links to relevant parts and resources. All cost estimates reflect China-direct pricing available through our sourcing mini-program.

Bill of Materials — What You'll Need

The Trident BOM is well-documented in the official Voron GitHub repository. Here's a high-level breakdown of costs based on China-direct sourcing:

Compared to a premium LDO kit ($900-1300 for a Trident 250mm), self-sourcing via China-direct channels saves 35-50%. The savings are largest on the frame, linear rails, and electronics. See our AliExpress sourcing guide for detailed seller recommendations.

Required Tools

Before you start, gather these tools. Most are generic workshop items; a few are Voron-specific:

• Metric hex wrenches: 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm — ball-end preferred for hard-to-reach screws
• Metric socket set: 7mm, 8mm, 10mm for M5 nuts and leadscrew nuts
• Digital calipers: Essential for frame squaring, belt tension, and Z offset
• Deburring tool: For cleaning extrusion ends after cutting
• Soldering iron: For heat-set inserts (M3 and M4)
• Crimping tool: For JST-XH, Molex Micro-Fit, and ferrule connectors
• Small file set: For smoothing printed part edges
• Needle-nose pliers: For reaching into tight spaces
• Multimeter: For continuity testing and voltage checks
• Spirit level: For frame squareness checking
• Thread locker (blue): Loctite 242 or equivalent for critical fasteners
• Isopropyl alcohol: For cleaning rails, bed, and electronics before assembly

Optional but strongly recommended: a torque screwdriver (0.5-2.0 Nm range) for consistent screw tension on linear rail mounts and heat-set inserts.

Phase 1: Frame Assembly

The frame is the foundation of your Trident. A well-squared frame makes every subsequent step easier — a crooked frame leads to binding rails, uneven bed tram, and poor print quality. Take your time here.

Step 1: Organize extrusions. Sort your 2020 and 2040 profiles by length. The Voron Trident uses 5 different extrusion lengths depending on your build size. Refer to the official manual for the exact cut list. If you ordered pre-cut extrusions, verify each length with calipers before assembly.

Step 2: Deburr and clean. Run a deburring tool along all extrusion edges, especially the ends. Even pre-cut extrusions can have sharp burrs from the cutting process. Wipe all extrusions with isopropyl alcohol to remove cutting oil and aluminum dust.

Step 3: Assemble the base (Y-axis frame). Start with the lower horizontal frame. Use the corner brackets and M5x10 screws to connect the 2040 extrusions. Tighten to ~1.5 Nm. Use a spirit level to check that the base is flat — any twist here will propagate upward.

Step 4: Add vertical extrusions. Attach the four vertical 2020 extrusions to the base corners. Use a square to ensure each vertical is perpendicular to the base. Loose-fit the screws initially, then tighten progressively while checking alignment.

Step 5: Top frame. Attach the top horizontal extrusions. This completes the box frame. Check all diagonals with calipers — the difference between the two diagonals should be less than 1mm for a square frame.

Step 6: Z motor mounts and leadscrew brackets. Install the Z motor mounts on the bottom of the frame (three motors arranged in a triangle — two at the front corners, one at the center rear). Mount the leadscrew brackets at the top of the vertical extrusions aligned with each motor position.

Common pitfall: Overtightening the corner bracket screws before the frame is fully assembled. Tighten just enough to hold alignment during assembly, then do final tightening after all extrusions are in place and diagonals are verified.

Phase 2: Motion System

Linear rails — X and Y axes: The Trident uses two MGN9H rails for the X axis (gantry) and two MGN9H or MGN12H rails for the Y axis (bed platform). Mount the Y rails to the 2040 extrusions on the base frame. Use a straight edge or known-flat surface to ensure the rails are parallel — even 0.1mm of misalignment will cause binding.

Gantry assembly: The X gantry uses two MGN9H rails mounted on a 2040 extrusion. Mount the gantry extrusions to the Y-axis carriages using the printed gantry mounts. Ensure the X rails are parallel and the gantry moves freely across the full Y travel. You should be able to push the gantry from one end to the other with one finger.

Belt routing: The Trident uses a CoreXY belt routing system. This is the most mechanically complex part of the build. The belts route from the A motor (left-front), across the X gantry to the right idler, then to the B motor (right-front). Follow the official manual's belt routing diagram precisely. A single mis-routed belt will cause bizarre print artifacts that are hard to diagnose.

Belt tension: Target 100-120 Hz on the Gates belt tension app (or similar). For the Trident, the belt length is shorter than the V2.4, so tension will be slightly higher for the same frequency. Tension the belts evenly — uneven tension causes skew artifacts and dimensional inaccuracy.

Z axis — triple leadscrew assembly: The Trident's unique triple-Z system uses three T8 leadscrews (2mm pitch, 4-start) driven by three NEMA17 motors. Each leadscrew is supported by a leadscrew nut mounted to the bed frame. The bed is supported on three points — this is the key advantage over the V2.4's four-point system, as three points always define a plane.

Assembly tip: Install the Z leadscrews and motor couplers before mounting the bed. Spin each leadscrew by hand to verify it's straight and doesn't wobble. A bent leadscrew will cause periodic Z banding.

Phase 3: Fixed Bed Platform

The Trident's fixed bed is simpler than the V2.4's flying gantry, but it still needs careful assembly for consistent first layers.

Bed frame assembly: The bed is supported by an aluminum extrusion frame that connects to the three leadscrew nuts. Mount the extrusions with corner brackets, then attach the leadscrew nuts. The bed platform should sit level without any force.

Silicone heater installation: The 120V or 240V silicone heater (500-1000W depending on bed size) is bonded to the underside of the aluminum bed plate. Use the included pressure-sensitive adhesive or a thin layer of high-temperature RTV silicone. Route the power wires through cable chains to the electronics compartment.

Build plate: The Trident uses a spring steel build plate with PEI or PEO coating. Install the magnetic sheet on the aluminum bed plate, then attach the build plate. Ensure the magnetic sheet has no bubbles or wrinkles.

Phase 4: Electronics and Wiring

Mainboard selection: The BTT Octopus Pro or SKRat 14 are the most popular choices for the Trident. The Octopus Pro provides 8 stepper drivers, 5 thermistor inputs, 6 fan outputs, and easy configuration. For the Trident's 5 motors (X, Y, Z1, Z2, Z3 + extruder), any 6+ driver board works.

Wiring the toolhead: Use the CAN bus approach for minimal wiring (4 wires: 24V power + CAN H + CAN L). The BTT EBB36 or EBB42 toolhead board mounts directly on the Stealthburner. This eliminates the spaghetti of individual fan, thermistor, and heater wires running through the cable chain.

PSU wiring: The Meanwell LRS-350-24 provides 24V @ 14.6A — enough for the heated bed, hotend, steppers, and fans. Wire the AC input through a 15A switch and fuse. Use 14 AWG wire for the bed circuit and 18 AWG for everything else.

Pro tip: Label every wire at both ends before crimping. Use a label maker or heat shrink labels. When you're troubleshooting a loose connection at 2 AM, you'll thank yourself.

Phase 5: Klipper Configuration

The official Voron Klipper configs are maintained in the Voron GitHub repository. Start with the template for your Trident size, then customize:

• Stepper rotation_distance: For the Trident's T8 leadscrews (2mm pitch, 4-start), the rotation_distance is 8 (2mm × 4 starts). For the extruder, calculate based on gear ratio — typically 22.678 for the CW2 with standard bondtech gears.
• Endstop configuration: The Trident uses X, Y, and Z endstops. The Z endstop is triggered by the nozzle touching the bed (probe-based). Configure the Z probe as a virtual endstop.
• PID auto-tuning: Run PID_CALIBRATION for the extruder (PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=250) and the bed (PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=heater_bed TARGET=100). Save the results to your config.
• Input shaper: Use an ADXL345 accelerometer for accurate resonance measurement. Run ACCELEROMETER_MEASURE on X and Y to find resonance frequencies, then set shaper_freq_x and shaper_freq_y accordingly. If you don't have an accelerometer, use the manual tuning method with test prints.
• Pressure advance: Run the PA tuning tower after input shaper calibration. Start with a value of 0.04 and adjust based on the test print.
• Bed mesh: The Trident's fixed gantry makes bed mesh calibration straightforward. Use 5x5 or 7x7 grid points. The [bed_mesh] section in Klipper handles compensation automatically.

Common Pitfalls and Troubleshooting

• Z banding: Usually caused by bent leadscrews, misaligned leadscrew couplers, or loose leadscrew nuts. Check each leadscrew by spinning it by hand — any wobble indicates a bend. Verify the coupler is properly seated on both the motor shaft and leadscrew.
• First layer inconsistency: The Trident's three-point bed leveling is very stable, but the bed frame must be trammed to the gantry. Use the Z_tilt_adjust macro to automatically level the bed to the gantry before each print.
• Belt skipping: Usually caused by insufficient belt tension or misaligned idler pulleys. Check belt tension with a frequency app. Verify the idler pulleys are level and the belts aren't rubbing against the extrusion edges.
• Heat creep: The Trident's enclosed chamber can get hot, especially with a 350mm bed running at 100°C+. Ensure your hotend fan is running continuously and has adequate airflow. Consider an auxiliary chamber fan for high-temperature materials.
• CAN bus disconnection: If your toolhead periodically disconnects, check the CAN bus termination resistors (120 ohms at each end) and the quality of your CAN wiring. Shielded twisted pair is strongly recommended.

First Print Checklist

Before your first print, run through this checklist:

• All frame screws tightened to ~1.5 Nm
• Linear rails move smoothly — no binding
• Belt tension 100-120 Hz on both A and B belts
• Z leadscrews straight and properly aligned
• All wiring connections secure and labeled
• Klipper config validated (no errors)
• PID auto-tuning completed for both extruder and bed
• Input shaper calibration completed
• Pressure advance calibrated
• Z offset properly set (paper test + live Z adjust)
• First layer test print (single-layer square) looks uniform

Recommended first print: The Voron test cube (20mm) included in the GitHub repository. Print at 50 mm/s, 0.2mm layer height, 0.4mm line width. Inspect for layer adhesion, dimensional accuracy, and surface finish. If the cube looks good, increase speed gradually.

Why the Trident Is the Best Beginner Voron

The Trident simplifies the Voron experience without compromising on print quality. The fixed gantry eliminates the need for quad-gantry-leveling (QGL) — the four-motor Z alignment system used in the V2.4 that is one of the most challenging parts of that build. The Trident's three-point bed leveling means you get a perfectly trammed bed with one Z_tilt_adjust command. The machine is mechanically simpler, faster to build, and just as capable as its bigger sibling.

If you're building your first Voron, the Trident is the right choice. If you're an experienced builder looking for a second machine, the Trident is still a fantastic option — especially at the China-direct price point of $500-650 for a 250mm build.